An Oasis in a Commune (19 - 20 February 2013)

It was odd leaving the Mairood this morning, I've been there a week but it feels much longer - in a good way. But time to move on towards Vietnam and Ant and David (hooray!) via Cambodia. We trundle my bag back through the fishing village the 300 metres to the road, luckily this time on foot with a three wheeled trolley and not a mad motorbike.



Chin is driving me down to the Cambodian border, not a long trip but rather than go via the main road we take the back route next the coast. It's funny, I always thought there was nothing else between Trat and the border apart from the one flash hotel a few miles north, the Centara, but in fact it's bustling with quite a few small bungalow and hut resorts next to small white sand beaches. These never come up when you Google the area but Chin tells me they very rarely have "farangs" staying as they speak no English at all and have few Western comforts. But from the outside they look quite nice. We also pass some more small, really rough fishing villages and the rubbish dump which is just a huge landfill and an enormous blot on the landscape.
But finally time to say goodbye as I approach the Cambodian border. Having been through this a couple of times I know the terrible scams, this time I arm myself with the e visa I had done a couple of days before online. Apart from the mandatory 50p to go through the "medical check" where they wave a digital thermometer about a foot in front of your nose and pronounce you OK, I was able to wave my evisa like some Indian memshaib and the disappointed crowds parted. This must really annoy the immigration guys as apparently they charge whatever inflated price they can for visas, but not me this time. But transport from the border into Koh Kong is still extortionate compared to normal local prices, but that is because the local immigration police take a kick back from every fare. But thinking about it it's not a lot different to the huge airport taxes border scam we and foreigners have to pay at British Airports... OK that's more "official" but still a rip off!
Going for the cheaper option of a tuk tuk instead of a car I brace myself for the 12km journey to the Oasis Resort. Quite bumpy as I expected as tuk tuks here are basically a motorbike with a little unsprung cart attached to the back. But all was well until we leave the town of Koh Kong to get here. We turn off down a red dusty path and negotiate the most enormous potholes and ridges. How these things keep going I will never know, I'm surprised they don't just fall apart. But 1.6kms of bouncing later I am dropped off here. What a great place. Just five bungalows surrounding a large infinity edge pool overlooking the scrubby jungle and the Cardamom mountains in the distance for $25 US a night. Ok there's no wifi which is annoying, but still, not bad value. Run by a Brit, Jason, it's been here a few years now and it is run well. It was his dream and he built it from scratch.



But the local commune in which it's set is shocking. Apart from the unmade road which must be a nightmare in the rainy season, it's a motley collection of really ramshackle Cambodian stilt house, lots of rubbish, dust, mangy dogs and tiny children playing about in the red dirt. The water is still collected from a well at the edge. After that, this place really did seem an Oasis.


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Missin' Mairood's Magic Water... (16 - 18 February 2013)

These smaller of the beaten track places are always good to meet great people. Steve from the US is doing a bit of travelling whilst his daughter completes a college project in the North. He was one of the original US draft dodgers from the Vietnam War and spent four months in jail as a result. And Julie from the UK who is amongst other things a fringe performing artist and writer, known also as "The Tranny With A Fanny" - a female impersonating an outrageous drag artist who had been up in Phnom Penh doing a gig. I must say I felt less than colourful besides those two...
Today we go on medical missions (not for me I hasten to add) to Trat 60 km north. The German couple here with the "mystery wife" are in need of some strong controlled drugs and need to go to the hospital. And Steve is heading northwards to meet up with his daughter and needs to be dropped off at the bus station. So along with Julie, we pile into Chin's rather luxurious minibus. After the hospital drop off we repair to the pharmacy for simpler drugs. I take the opporunity to stock up on Cipro's as all the ones I keep buying "just in case" case go out of date as luckily I haven't needed the "just in case".



I then spend a happy hour exploring Trat. Last time I was here it was just overnight so I didn't really get a feel for the place. Having said that, whilst there are more people about in the day, there still wasn't much to see. I still love seeing the orange monk offering gift sets on sale full of toothpaste and Tide. But good to spend some time in a workaday Thai town with no tourist infrastructure. And I loved the car park in the temple grounds - very spiritual!


But I will really miss the Mairood - we were joking last night that Chin puts something in the water! It's hard to define. On the surface it's a collection of little hut bungalows like many others surrounding a little pool. The rooms are above basic, ok and clean but not 5* luxury, the beds Asian hard. It's on a lagoon not a beach (that is about a five minute walk away along the coast). And when you get to it there is nothing else there, just a narrow beach of white powder sand with odd bits of rubbish washed up on the shore. It's on the edge of a fascinating but rough old fishing village so nowhere to go to get a drink or eat out. The food is amazing but the restaurant is brightly lit and the chairs are the white plastic garden variety. There's no "set piece" sights around to go to. But the place has an atmosphere of calm and relaxation which is hard to describe. When you first arrive, it looks like any other, but very quickly it draws you in. Almost everyone who checks in, unless they have a strict timetable, extend their stay as I have done. And many people return, as I plan. So what is it about the place? Chin and his two sisters (they are both US residents) are kind, generous and caring hosts and it's a quiet and relaxing setting with no road noise. The only noises are birds, the roosters and the occasional chugging of a boat. But that still doesn't explain it - I think there's magic in that water after all...


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Location:Khlong Yai,Thailand

Mellow Mairood (14 - 15 February 2013)

I'm really settling in to this place, it's really laid back and a great place to just chill. It's basically miles from anywhere. The food is fab, so the diet will have to wait till Cambodia...
The garden and the swinging sofa hammocks on the lawns leading down the water are shaded by trees with the odd hen scrabbling about. I originally booked in for four nights but have decided to stay at least another two. There are also some great people staying here, and some odd ones. One German couple have been here since November and the man makes an appearance but the woman is a mystery, only occasionally seen. Another guy has been here for a while, an Austrian who is editing his book. On the first night I met a couple of English girls who work at the International school in Bangkok who were here with their lovely black labradoodle, Leo (this is a pet friendly place, perhaps I'll bring the Dyl next year...). And a great couple from Kentucky. Went for an early walk with them up the road outside the fishing village this morning and took a look at the sprawling monastery and temple.



On the way we looked at one of the wooden fishing boats unloading it's catch of small white slimy looking fish. No idea what they were but they didn't look at all appetising as they were shovelled out of the hold into their plastic boxes, perhaps they are destined for fish sauce...


And we went past a swish looking school, the sound of the kids playing before the school day began sounding the same as everywhere else in the world. And the local clinic was there too. But as you walk back to the Mairood through the fishing village with its ramshackle buildings hanging over the water where the women were sorting prawns and cracking and cleaning crabs, life looked as if it has been the same for ever. I wonder just how many of those children, now receiving their education will be satisfied to follow in their parents' footsteps and stay and run the family fishing boats. From what I can see as an outsider it's a life of very hard work with little reward. But I guess it's a no win situation, use their education and move on and the village dies, or stay on here with so many fewer opportunities. Difficult.



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Location:Khlong Yai,Thailand

Mad Mairood (13 February 2013)

Having got over my hair raising arrival, and if you look at the pics of the walkway I was careering along with huge bag on the back of a motorbike, I think you will understand my concerns, I wake up to the full mad glory that is the Mairood Resort. It's built over a mangrove swamp on the edge of a small lagoon that goes out to the sea, basically in the back of beyond, almost on the Cambodian border, right at the narrowest part of Thailand.



The rooms are actually ok, the damp smell disappeared after the aircon has been on a while and joy of joys for a hotel in these parts, there is a separate shower area, so often the shower is just there soaking everything in its path. But I was back to that decision, water pressure or heat - the small electic shower unit incapable of providing both at the same time. Am not sure I would want one of the "fan cooled" mangrove rooms though...


It's on a largish plot with the "bungalows" around a small pool. The garden down to the water is dotted with hammocks and swinging sofas. There are also a number of large cages harbouring a variety of different birdlife as well as a range of hens and roosters wandering about to say nothing of the cats and dogs. Bit like London Zoo...











But the hens come into their own at breakfast by providing the fresh eggs, and more joy, given his restaurant background, Chin serves decent wholemeal bread! But whatever my concerns might be, this place must be a combination of the Nam Hai and the Dorchester to the people of the fishing village that is just outside the gate.
I'm not sure I've ever stayed quite so close to anything like it. The sprawling village is built over the lagoon. The walkways of concrete look a bit like a more recent Government investment, but the houses in the main are still just wooden huts over the water, topped off with corrugated iron.



All seem to be completely open on one side and as you walk by trying not to be too obviously nosy, all human life is there. People asleep on the floor in the heat of the day, kids half dressed running around, men mending their fishing nets, and old women picking over prawns and sorting out crab by cracking the claws with the few teeth they have left. Remind me not to order crab tonight... A few of the houses have some dusty goods for sale in their dark interiors, no chance of picking up a diet coke or a bottle of why why here.... Even my Thainglish is of no use outside the hotel, this is definitely not on the tourist trail, not one word of English seems to be understood out in the village. And no friendly little bars for a why why before dinner, which on reflection is probably no bad thing. Those walkways feel quite high above the water and would feel even narrower after a glass or two. But thankfully the Mairood is fully stocked with why why. And during the afternoon Chin or his sister come along to see what you fancy for dinner. No formal menus here, they just tell you what's around, you decide, tell them what level of spiciness you want and in my case, clarify the "no packchi". And at whatever time you have specified, out comes an amazing meal,



But last night's concerns about my hippy wardrobe are obviously unfounded, the owner asked me tonight if I was an artist or something back in the UK.... But it is really peaceful and I can see how people stay here for a while. Perhaps I will write that book after all...

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Location:Khlong Yai,Thailand

Leaving flashpacking behind...(12 February 2013)

Today, after 2 months I leave my island home of Koh Samui and embark on an overland trip to get to meet Ant in Ho Chi Minh city in a month's time. I have a vague route, but timing is dependant on visa's, I can't arrive in Vietnam until 4 March as the visa is only for four weeks. I have to travel via Sihanoukville in Cambodia as that's where I need to get my Vietnamese visa. But I realised last night that my time in Cambodia is limited by the number of Malarone (anti malarials) I have... All very complicated! But if I ask Ant to bring me out some more Malarone which we will need for Sapa, then I am less tied to dates.
So the journey began from my favourite airport, Koh Samui, on less than my favourite plane, a jet prop. Memories of Myanmar, but I had a little bit more confidence in the Bangkok Airways pilots than those Burmese ones... I am making my way today to the south of Trat, still in Thailand, but fairly close to the Cambodian border.
It's an odd route. The sensible, but more expensive way would be to fly to Bangkok and then take another flight to Trat. The less sensible, but a bit cheaper is to take a flight across the Gulf of Thailand from Koh Samui to U Tapao, the combined civilian airport and airforce base (near the shi***le that is Pattaya) and then another flight (well it's got a flight number and a separate boarding pass) in a Bangkok Airways luxury minibus..... Only 31/2 hours....
So that is what I am doing now. Sitting in my minibus about to partake of my in flight food - yes, I get in minibus food. Now where's that trolley?



But Bangkok Airways strapline "Fly Boutique, Feel Unique" is living up to it's name - I am the only passenger....




But now the backpacking has returned with a vengeance. My flash limo minibus drops me at Trat Airport, where I wait to be picked up by Nit, I know, my head itches just saying the name.... I wait for a while and Nit arrives with his pickup, throws the bags in the back bit and off we go to drive the 85 kilometres or so towards the Cambodian border. I knew the Mairood "resort" was 300 metres from the road, but what I hadn't bargained for was what exactly that 300 metres was. I was about to find out. In my mind it was a slow amble through coconut palms. In reality it was a hair raising ride as a pillion passenger on the back of a small motorbike... On the front goes my by now 23kg bag, then the driver, then me with a smaller backpack and a Coach handbag... well you can picture it, I'm sure. Hanging on for dear life we scoot along smelly concrete walkways not more than a metre wide, me not knowing which bit of the driver to hang on to and saying in my best Thainglish "Honestly, I happee to war..." - all I got back from him was a giggle... What I haven't mentioned is that said very narrow walkways span a series of mucky looking rivery things which make up the local fishing village and he seemed so close to the edge as we scattered pedestrians, dogs and children in our wake. Never was I so pleased to see a destination!
A bit like the wedding, on first glance, I feel that my clothes are not quite hippyish enough for the Mairood Resort. Some bungalows (and I use that term loosely) are set around a small pool, the accomodation puts me in mind of some of the places Ant and I stayed in in deepest Mexico. Slight damp smell in the rooms but all looks clean. The owner is a really interesting guy called Chin who lived in the States for 30 years but has been back developing and running this place for the last seven. It's No 1 on Tripadvisor but having said that, there's not much else around here. It's billed as a place to chill out, hang out in the the hammocks, write a book.... But it is also pet friendly so there are lots of (hopefully) healthy doggies about.
But the good news is, as Chin was in restaurants all his working life the food is said to be amazing and they do have both why why and wifi, Peace Man....

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Celebrations all round (8 - 10 February 2013)

A good couple of days for celebrations. On Friday, Colin and Naomi, who I first met at the Florist Resort when Carole was here, got married here at the hotel on the beach. They are such a nice family and invited me to join the evening celebrations on the beach which was really nice, they all made me feel very welcome. It did produce a bit of a sartorial conundrum though, my packing, which I thought had covered all eventualities didn't run to a wedding outfit...



But no matter, I donned my hippy long frock and a beaded necklace and as it was dark by then, I think I fitted in rather well! And Naomi looked fabulous, her Dad giving her away, just right for the setting. I particularly liked the groom and ushers in their snazzy suits but with matching sunnies and white Haviana's. Cool!


And then Saturday was the start of Chinese New Year and the hotel is full. I decided to eat in the hotel restaurant for a change and it was heaving, but on New Year's Eve it is traditional for Chinese families to eat out together and they were doing that big time! Bit of an altercation with the F & B manager who, as I wasn't partaking of the "Round Asia Buffet", tried to make me sit inside. Apparently the outside beach tables are for "buffet customers only" who get a front row seat of the fire show. Suffice to say I had my steak and chips (I know, but for once I wanted a Western carb...) under the stars.



On Sunday, I walked up to Mae Nam to see the preparations for the big New Year night at the Chinese temple there. Loads of preparation going on, sound stages, tables, chairs, it looks like it is going to be a huge party. And they were delivering and putting together the dragon, it looks like a big one! I think the evening will be a cross between a Full Moon Party and Walking Street times ten, so may give it a miss! As I sit here on Sunday evening all I can hear are fireworks and firecrackers going off in the distance.


I walk back partly along the road but then follow a sign to the Buddha Beach Bar, which Carole and I have walked past many times. A trifle unnerving walking down a small track through the coconut grove but in the end the beach bar appeared. It was the relief of a safe arrival that prompted me to order a lunchtime cube.... The waves today are big and quite dramatic and made a lovely backdrop to a relaxing hour.







But again language problems, in spite of my huge vocabulary of six Thai words, still persist. A nice touch here at turndown is the filling of the ice bucket, but tonight it was left empty. A call to guest services was a frustration of misunderstanding until I again called on my Thainglish and said "no eye". Suddenly you could hear the smile of understanding in the Guest Services Manager's voice. "Ah, no eye, we sen soo". Works every time...

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Location:Ko Samui,Thailand

A blog desert (30 January - 7 February 2013)

It's been a bit of a blog desert recently but all is quiet here as I flashpack away before going back on the road and back to something more like backpacking in a few days.



The days here are fairly predictable, in a good way! Lazing by the pool, wandering along the beach, watching the ever changing mix of people staying here. All nationalities are represented and recently more Chinese have arrived in the run up to Chinese New Year. A few trips into Chaweng and Nathon for a change of scene or back down to near the Florist for Walking Street. Also an increased complement of Brits as the family of the couple I first met up with at the Florist arrive for their wedding here on Friday. It's certainly a big one with over 40 guests from the UK here for the event. But they are a lovely group of people from Whitby who I joined for cocktails a couple of nights ago.


So my big decision most days is where and what to eat, nice.
Also on my evening walks through the local village area I take in the local wildlife. Only seen one snake so far and luckily that was squashed on the road along with a few unfortunate frogs.



The family of puppies that were so tiny when Carole was here are really getting big. Other dogs from healthy lookers to sad cases are everywhere, I wander past chickens and chicks scrabbling about in the dirt, there is the odd horse tethered to a coconut palm and my favourite is checking the progress of the water buffalo and her new calf. And I also walk past a shop with a great name. It's touted as the best wedding photographer on the island and is called "Donudes"... Not sure it's that appropriate!


But Thailand's big on festivals and all is gearing up for Chinese New Year. The hotel is having a big gala evening (may give that one a miss...), Chinese lanterns adorn the streets and hang dotted around the hotel. But the local temple shop, normally full of yellow Thai temple stuff and Monks' offerings is now a cornucopia of festival objects. Christmas baubles are still in stock and Chinese New Year lanterns fight for space with that other great Western festival, Valentine's Day.


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