….or so they say in the brochures – and as we came in to land on elastic band airways it was easy to believe the hype that this is one of the most beautiful lagoons on earth. Rarotonga is a circular island with a fairly narrow lagoon all the way around, Aitutaki, some 225kms north is a hook shaped island surrounded by a huge lagoon which is 12kms from north to south, and 15kms wide at the base. The view was stunning – this huge expanse of still turquoise water, paler in some places and deeper in others with tiny green dots (the motus) edged in the whitest sand ever. As I started the day I was a little concerned when my pickup from the hotel for the airport was scheduled for only 40 mins before the flight was due to take off – what about getting there, what about check in, what about security? But I needn’t have worried – the plane holds about 30 people, and as for security checks – well they don’t need those here it appears. Show ‘em your e ticket, no need for identification, get your boarding card that looks like a bus ticket and on you get….. In fact I was there far too early, but good people watching whilst I waited – a smattering of tourists but mainly Cook Islanders garlanded in fragrant leis and headdresses (men and women) either going home or going to visit relatives. The smell of frangipani will forever remind me of Air Rarotonga. I was also relieved – the publicity photos for Air Rarotonga all show sleek (but small…) planes that appear to fly by magic – there’s not an engine to be seen. But the good news is that there were 2 propellers, one on each wing, so I was safe to go. But perhaps I am being a little unfair on Air Rarotonga. The plane appeared in reasonably good nick and the pilots sounded reassuring. But no real safety briefing as such – just “read the info in the seat pocket about the brace position” and that was it. Given we were to fly over such a large expanse of water, I would have preferred to know that there were life jackets under those seats…. But as you are now reading this you will know that the flight was safe and uneventful – they even have a trolley for tea and coffee, and offer you a sweet before landing – never really understood that – I know the principle is to help with any ear pressure problems as you descend through the stratosphere, but at the height we were flying (much less than a jet where you don’t get the sweet, and it felt not too far above the sea) I can’t really see the purpose. Baggage reclaim is fun too, about 3 mins after you get off, your bags (not tagged by the way, with so few flights I assume that is deemed unnecessary too) appear on the little truck – Heathrow could learn a thing or two. So I was whisked off to Ranginui’s Retreat – 6 villas (ok – huts!) just a few miles from the airport – what a wonderful setting on a small inlet on the lagoon, pale sands, blue water. It must be the best location on the island as taunting me from across the small expanse of water (about 30 metres) was the island’s best 5 star jobbie with over water bungalows, the lot. So I took stock, what did they have that I didn’t? Well I certainly had about £400 a night more money in my bank account, my £50 v their £450. I had a great little hut, they had little huts (ok – villas!). Mine was detached, theirs were “semis”, I had a little kitchen so I wasn’t dependent on the vagaries of room service, they didn’t. They have the only private pool villa on the island (dread to think what that would cost), and I had my own little pool (see pic) just 2 steps away from my front door (ok it was shared by all 6 huts, but the hotel was quiet). I had a flush loo, so, I assume, did they – I had upgraded to the one hut that had a flush loo, all the others had “environmentally friendly compost” ones – I’m all for saving the planet, but not when it comes to a toilet….. OK, I didn’t get a nightly turndown with a choc on the pillow, but the little shop in reception did sell Kit Kats. So all in all, after checking the bed was clean (it was perfect) and said loo actually flushed (it did), I was happy, and settled on my verandah to take it all in. As dusk descended it was so quiet, even the insects seem to be quiet here. No barking dogs – there are none anywhere on the island. Apparently years ago, there was a leprosy outbreak and they thought the dogs were the cause – so they got rid of them all, never to return. As the darkness came, all I could hear was the odd splash as a school of fish took a flight out of the water and then splashed back…
