The good news is that the singing last night finished at about 11pm. It started again today mid afternoon and is still going on. They tell me here that today, being full moon, is the best time to be in Bali with temple ceremonies everywhere. There is one at a small sea temple a few kilometres from here – Batu Ngaus Temple, a temple like Tanah Lot but actually joined to the mainland by a small bridge and no tourists as everyone goes to Tanah Lot. The ceremony is planned for midday. I set off through the rice fields on a bike, realising that I am a bit like a mad dog or an Englishman, the sun is fierce, and the bike uncomfortable. Just the usual bike seat but the roads were very bumpy. After a few wrong turnings I finally find it. It’s a lovely baby size temple and decorated with yellow flags and banners but no sign of big activity, just a few women sorting things out. The setting is impressive – jutting out from a black sand beach with the white surf crashing into it. But the women in there were far from friendly which surprised me as everyone says they welcome visitors and it’s always ok to take photos. I was wearing the temple sarong and sash but could tell I wasn’t welcome so I left. Back on the mainland where I had parked my bike were a few older men in traditional dress. They were really nice and welcoming and they tell me that the ceremony was to be held at about 3pm – time is obviously flexible here. But too long to wait in the heat so I make my way back.
The men had told me that there is another big ceremony in the village next to the one I am staying in tomorrow at 3pm, so I may go and take a look at that. There were also various women dressed in traditional costume walking down the road towards the big temple with some rather fabulous and complicated offerings balanced elegantly on their heads, but when I take a look at the temple, nothing seemed to be happening. If only I could get a proper timetable out of people rather than the vague “might be’s or “arounds” I might get to see something in full flow – but perhaps I am being too Western again! On the bike ride back, I stopped to have a drink of water and realised too late that I’s stepped on what appeared to be an ant’s nest – I ended up doing what appeared to be a very un Balinese mad dance to try and shake them off!
But back at the villa I decide to investigate where all the music and singing that has started up again is coming from. It’s not from the big temple down the road, but from a private compound. I’m sure it would have been fine to go in, everyone smiled as I walked by, but after this morning, I didn’t want to risk offending anyone. There was some talk of Balinese dancing at this place later, but Joto, who works here says it’s not good. Even though they wear the traditional dress, it has become “erotic” and in his view, not nice to see. I think they want to protect my obvious Western modesty.....
