Friday, 17 December 2010
Da Noise Got Into Da Heads (9 - 10 December 2010)
Gill spent a couple of days casing the area of Crown Point waiting for Ant to arrive. Despite this picture of a local beach, the big thing was the noise, traffic, clubs and the ubiquitous loud car steros pumping out reggae at all hours of the day and night. Add that to the fact that the little guest house had louvre windows that didn't actually close meant that the real Tobago experience was sounded out.
So Ant arrived and we decide to head for the hills - or at least up the coast to listen out for the real sounds of Tobago. And we found them. We hired a jeep and made our way, with Gill navigating the long way round (no SatNav here) ending up in in Castara, a small village on the Caribbean coast of less than 500 people. On the way we went down memory lane to the Turtle Beach Hotel which was the venue for Gill's first big adventure some 21 years ago. It was sort of the same but Gill finds her tastes have changed.... We end up in a great little place right on the beach in a quiet cove. It's called the Naturalist Resort - and no, that isn't "naturist".... It doesn't look too far on the map but Tobago seems to be one big hill covered in dense rainforest with the odd little cove beach hiding down a very steep hill. The roads are narrow, winding and hilly but as you round every corner you are faced with yet another amazing view as the blue Caribbean can be seen through the dense rainforest.
Interestingly, it's almost as noisy here as Crown Point with the sometimes crashing waves, the cockerels who pay no heed to dawn and screech all day and the heavy rain sounding like pebbles on the tin roof. But we learn that these natural noises are all together more pleasant and easier to live with.