We were not disappointed. Off the beaten track again, 12k on yet more dirt roads, Derek driving the chevvy like an armoured vehicle through deep dirt and deep water, we spot a few chickens in the road. Such have our notions changed – two weeks ago in the world of work and retirement a few chickens in the road would have signified the back of beyond, now they signify the start of civilisation. We were right as before us the pristine white gates of the Estancia Isabella appeared. Driving another 2 kms we saw a group of beautiful green trees in manicured lawns, nestled within was a magnificent house – the Casa Principal of the estancia which is to be our home for the next 4 days. Greeted by the cutest (in a very macho way) gaucho you have ever seen, Diego, we were taken to meet Diana, the owner. Whilst we settled in by being shown to our rooms by a uniformed maid, and taking a walk in the gardens whilst early cocktails were prepared, we marvelled at our good fortune in finding such a place. Our introduction to life on an estancia was real – a trapped cat about to be eaten by a dog and a large Argentinian fox trapped in a snare (trapped to prevent them from eating the eggs of the ria, ostrich type birds). Said fox was finished off “humanely” later with a gaucho with a big stick – but the eggs were safe. The weather was perfect (2 days earlier there had been a hurricane with many trees down), we sat on the verandah surrounding the house learning about the history of this huge farm. 10kms wide by 5 kms long with 5000 head of beef cattle and various crops, guests like ourselves are a mere incidental, it’s the estancia itself that is its reason for being. We are the only 3 people staying here, apart from Beatrice, the daughter of a friend of the owner, who is here for 2 days. Dinner at 8.30pm we are told. The delicious dinner felt like something out of a Victorian novel. The small dining room, laid for 5, was presided over by Diana. As each course was finished, Diana pressed a discreet bell, which sounded in the kitchen, and Alicia the maid scuttled in to clear and then serve the next one. We have all decided we want one too when we get home – i.e. a bell and a maid to respond to the call! Good dinner conversation about Diana’s interesting past (born in Germany, but came here with her family in 1948), the current state of Argentinian politics and the economy, and discovering that as well as running this huge Estancia, she is also the writer of 6 published books, translated into many languages and one global best seller! We also learned of the history of the house. Not what you would expect of an Argentinan structure, and to Ant so very reminiscent of the chateau he stays in in France – the smell of polish, the gleaming wood floors, ornate doors, high elegant ceilings and 3 storeys, we were puzzled. But we discover it is a “pre-fab” – shipped here from Italy in 1904 in pieces and built on this ground. So we were in a town house from Milan – whilst 750kms from Buenos Aires. Finishing off the good Malbec wine on the verandah after dinner, the 3 of us yet again talked of our good fortune in this adventure – but like Cinderella, we had a clock to watch – at 11pm the mains electricity goes off – battery bedside lights in the rooms, but everywhere else pitch dark, this was a little too much of a challenge for us on this our first night. And tomorrow, the real adventure starts.
