Given the odd bomb blast you here about in Burma, and the ones that probably don't get through the news censors, airline security is remarkably lax. At most airports, our hand luggage was put through the x ray machine but bottles of water (secret and otherwise...) went through no problem. But at Thandwe (Ngapali Beach), it was absent all together, no checks at all. The odd thing was, it was all x rayed when we arrived Yangon at the end of the journey - slightly back to front we thought. Air KBZ lived up to their strap line, "exceeding your expectations" again, as well as leaving early, it got us back to Yangon in one piece! It was odd being back, we felt that we were old Burma hands this time, knowing where we were going (sadly back to the Winner Inn and not the Strand....). On the way from the airport we got the taxi, yet another old coke tin on wheels to take us to see Aung San Suu Kyi's house where she had been held under house arrest for all those years. We had expected to see this fortified with fences and blocked by the military, but apart from a few NLD posters and a large gate, it was unremarkable. We were pleased to have been able to see it and stop and take a few pictures. Frankly it looked a lot posher than the Winner Inn...
We only had the afternoon here as were flying to Bangkok early the next day, so our bags dropped and in a heat much stronger than when we had left two weeks ago, we sweated our way to the city. Even though we knew our way around, it had a different feel to last time, today was a working day and it was the weekend last time. There was much more hustle and bustle and it was fun to wander around the market by the Law Courts and see lawyers and clerks at their stalls typing out various legal documents for clients on very old and dusty typewriters. Crossing the road safely was still an achievement to be celebrated!
But enough of markets, we had been deprived of decent bread, cakes, coffee and tea for too long so went back to our local spiritual home, the posh Strand Hotel for a blow out afternoon tea and a bottle of the fizzy stuff.
Due to our currency machinations earlier in the trip, we were now pristine dollar rich, and flashed the cash! After our tea we had a wander around the riverfront where commuters were catching their ferries back home and were accosted by several small children selling overpriced post cards - Ant showed his softer side and parted with a few dollars. He actually parted with a few dollars more after a visit to the Strand's Art Gallery a few minutes later....
And then we go in search of a house a friend of David's had a connection with, lots of friendly help yet again from local people including the taxi driving into the local police station to ask for help... We thought all those fears of being banged up abroad in Burma were about to come true!
Dinner at Sabai@DMZ again where we were surrounded by Chinese people all dressed up for their New Year's Eve celebration. Whilst we had done our best to clean up, after almost three weeks of having our clothes washed in the local rivers, we were doing a rather good impression of being hippy soap dodgers in comparison to their finery...
So as we leave Burma, how would we describe it? Amazing is one word. Wonderful is another. Full of contrasts; the wastefulness and glitz of Nay Pyi Taw, the misty beauty and serenity of Bagan, the poverty in the countryside, the green tree lined streets and Imperial decay in Yangon, the beauty of the beach at Ngapali, the bounciness of the old trains, the jaw dropping first sight of Lake Inle, the heat of the plains, the cold of the nights at Lake Inle and in Mandalay, the steamy heat of the days in Yangon, the efficiency of the domestic airline network, the fantastic food we had everywhere, the surprising lack of visible military presence, the pollution and charm of Mandalay, the decay of Pyin Oo Lwin, the continued sunshine every single day. But above all, we will remember the people. Everyone says that the Burmese are the nicest and friendliest people in the world, which before we went, seemed an odd generalisation for a whole nation. But it was true, everywhere, people would talk to you, help you, laugh with you, without any hint of commercialism or wanting anything back. They have had a struggle on their road to democracy, and some still seem doubtful of a better future, but we wish them well. They deserve it. Go while you can.
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