At Yangon airport, David knew he had really earned his soapdodger's stripes. Frankly, he had been a little slow earning these as he always seemed to be able to pull out a freshly washed and perfectly ironed outfit whenever the need arose, but obviously not today. They waited in the Star Alliance Gold Card lane to check in (Gill was as usual exempt from this as again, she was on budget Air Asia, so qualified as a soapdodger by default....). They were first in the queue to check in when a bejewelled lady with a big gold handbag came up and imperiously asked if this was the "gocar" (gold card) queue. It was very obvious that it was as there was a huge sign saying exactly that. Perhaps she thought we couldn't read... It was her way of checking that we had seen the sign, as obviously we looked like no way did we belong there and should be lining up in the economy queue with the rest of the unwashed backpackers! She didn't look convinced when they said they knew exactly which queue they were in.... But Gill was pleased that her SE Asian language teaching skills had been so successful, as both Ant and David immediately understood "gocar". Their language skills have become so proficient that they have been throwing out the "why why's", the "stee rye's" and the "tahee to wi-ee ih plee" with the best of them and being immediately understood.....
But how odd to be whisked back in just an hour from Yangon airport, on a jet no less, not a propellor in sight, to the delights (?) of the 21st century. To be able to go to an ATM and get money when you want it, a decent coffee with real milk instead of Carnation from Starbuck's, proper muffins - what luxury! David thought that Amex had sent out an APB on his card it's not been used for so long..... But actually it all seemed a bit much, busy Bangkok airport, traffic, noise, huge skyscrapers. But we managed to get over the trauma quite quickly as we checked in to the chic Metropolitan Hotel and realised that there was still a world of fabulous bathrooms with power showers, luxe toiletries (straight in the bag, once a soapdodger....), big comfy beds with snowy white linen, concierges and a rather gorgeous pool. Not sure we looked the part though....
We soaked up the delights of this new found civilisation with Caesar salad, club sandwiches and burgers round the pool, but our why why travails continued. Civilisation is all very well, but a glass of why why at £10 a pop rather takes the edge off it....
But today was the first day of the Chinese New Year, so we take our first Bangkok MRT ride out to Chinatown to join in the celebrations. Loads of people all out on the streets and a great atmosphere. Through the temple where offerings for the New Year where being made and on to the Chinese Gate where a big stage had been set up and couple of comperes who looked like local tv presenters were hosting the show. As this is the Year of the Dragon, we realised there would be a big finale with a dragon so decided to hang around for it. Said dragon took its time to appear as we almost melted in the heat and pressing crowds. Think the show might have been called "Dragongate". Eventually the Dragon appeared and was rather spectacular. It must have been 100 foot long, lit up and supported by loads of men. To the sound of extremely loud drums it snaked its way to the area in front of the stage and climbed up a high pole, all very clever, but there was no escape till it had finished doing its thing, we couldn't move, hemmed in by the crowds. Eventually, the dragon had breathed all its fire and the crowd started to melt away. In need of a beer and not finding one anywhere, we jump (well jump is pushing it a bit, perhaps squeeze is a better word....) into a tuk tuk and whizz back to Silom. We find a great place to eat, the New Light Coffee House, an American style diner serving Thai food. Poor Gill again though, beer only, no why why!
But the next day we gear up for the highlight of the trip - shopping in Bangkok's myriad of malls. What a disappointment! Great shops, new malls, ATM's by the dozen, but huge prices. Not sure where the problem lies, the exchange rate or high Thai luxury import taxes. Whatever, prices were almost twice as much as in the UK, so it all became a bit pointless. So window shopping only, oh and coffees, cakes and lunches of course. Those prices were fine!
We had really enjoyed the food in Burma, even though Ant and David had to spice it up a bit with chilles, so we decided we needed a good, genuine Thai meal. We decided on the Ruen Mallika for some Royal Thai Cuisine, set in a garden in the dark lanes of Soi 22, off Sukhumvit. Eventually, due to the terrible traffic that Bangkok is famed for and a difficult to find place, we get there. The meal was good, and even for Ant and David, very spicy. But the place felt a bit run down and grubby and no sign of the service that Bangkok used to be famed for. Lots of mosquitoes, surly staff, generally charmless. We had noticed this change everywhere, even in the Metropolitan Hotel, where the staff, whilst efficient, lacked any charm. What a difference to Burma. Thailand needs to be careful, its identity of "Land of Smiles" is tottering badly. Our vote definitely goes to Burma/Myanmar.
We pass the days looking for Nirvana, i.e. fab goods at low prices, but don't find them. We wander through Patpong at night and find the fakes of old are no more, fakes are there, but so bad even the French wouldn't confiscate them, and Patpong itself, whilst still offering menus as you walk past, not for food or drink, but for ping pong shows (and we don't mean table tennis....), seemed a tame shadow of what it used to be.
Bangkok is a mish mash of the old and the new, a sandwich if you like. Above ground there are the sparkly and efficient Skytrain tracks and stations and the huge road network suspended in the air. Below ground there is the equally sparkly and efficient MRT subway station. In between is still the old Bangkok on the original streets with small shop houses and foodstalls catering to the smartly dressed working population. And all this held together with the ubiquitous shopping malls, cool and sophisticated.
We did make it to a couple of sights. First the Kao San Road, the backpackers' spiritual home. Not sure the visit qualified us for full soapdodger's membership though, think you need to stay in a flea bitten hotel there rather than the Metropolitan for that.... And then to Wat Phra for Ant and David to experience a traditional (yes, we mean a proper traditional as opposed to a Patpong traditional) Thai massage. The masseurs are trained at the temple. And then in the early evening to see the giant reclining golden buddha in the temple itself. What a great time to visit. Virtually every one else had gone and we had the whole area to ourselves, just us and this giant golden reclining buddha, just like a private visit. We negotiate a tuk tuk back, even though it is quite a long way, we felt that it could zip in and out of the Thai rush hour traffic. We were right and after a few hair raising U turns and ignored red lights, we arrived. Most people arrive at The Metropolitan in limo's. We felt that the door staff knew of our arrival minutes before we got actually got there - their wry smiles told us that they had been thinking "here come those mad Brit's again, the only ones who dare show up here in a noisy tuk tuk...."
On our last night in Bangkok, we spoil ourselves with dinner at the Nahm Restaurant at the Metropolitan hotel where we are staying. Perhaps we had been spolied with the good, no nonsense, fresh food we had eaten in Burma, but this meal seemed a bit too confused to be really memorable. But before dinner Ant and David brave the 65 floors to go for a drink on the rooftop, open air bar at the Banyan Tree next door. As usual, Gill wimped out,,,
So finally the last day of our joint trip, and prices notwithstanding Ant and David made one last effort to shop. They were not too disappointed this time and suffice to say at one point in a Department store they had an army of eight assistants following their every move and purchase. Net, it meant a rather un-cool re pack of suitcases in the minimalist Metropolitan Hotel lobby....
And so to Bangkok Airport to go our separate ways. Secret water came out for a last outing as landside the only alcohol available is beer... And then we go, Ant and David to the poshest lounge in the airport and Gill down the escalator to the minibus to resume her life as a soap dodger at her £15 a night airport hotel... What a difference a day makes!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
