No visit to Hanoi, or indeed Vietnam would be complete without paying respect to Uncle Ho, venerated by the people of Vietnam as their liberator from the American’s. We start today joining the snaking 200 metre queue in the hot sunshine of locals as we were marched 2 x 2 in complete silence, no bags, no shorts, no cameras, no phones, no hands in pockets or behind the back, respectfully dressed in to the ice cold granite mausoleum where Ho Chi Minh and his whiskery white beard lay at rest in his glass sarcophagus in that way that only Communist leaders can. We were very excited to see him as we had missed Chairman Mao in Beijing (he was away for a re-furb at the time!) It was fascinating watch the locals paying their deep respects. Very young children in long lines all holding on to the child in front, making a long snake, together with their teachers paying what was probably the first of many such visits in their lifetime. Our line was escorted at all times by the military in snow white uniforms who are there to ensure the dignity of the process. We didn’t dare look at each other in case we giggled and got arrested – the story in the Lonely Planet of Madame Tussaud’s managing corpse maintenance looked more than possible. The idea of Uncle Ho being wafted off to Baker Street for his annual facial, botox and spa trip crossed our minds! The mausoleum was set in beautiful parklands next to the Presidential Palace; a bright yellow French influenced pile, now used by Vietnam’s leaders. In the gardens we visited the more humble abode that Uncle Ho made his home while he was in charge – a simple stilt house bedside a carp pool – almost Gandhi-esque in its simplicity. After seeing his collection of 2 cars we move on to the HCM museum. This was a lesson in not letting some Western arty type advise you. It was too complex, full of meaningless overcomplicated art – all we needed was simple pictures and history of the man. The most interesting exhibit was the pens used to sign the Paris accords. We also enjoyed our visit to the Hanoi Hilton (Gill forgot to present her Hilton Diamond card for points…..) The Hanoi Hilton is actually the nickname given to this old prison by the French and later for US prisoners of war. It was built by the French colonialists and then saw action in the 60’s/70’s as a prison camp for the US pilots shot down on the bombing raids on North Vietnam. This included Senator John McCain who could well be US President by the end of the year. It’s interesting how perspective changes views. The exhibits about when it was run by the French imprisoning Vietnamese freedom fighters were all about bad conditions and torture (including the guillotines used). But the bits about when it was used to house US POW’s made it look like Butlin’s – all joy and happiness and great care – not sure those US pilots saw it quite that way. In a true reflection of modern Hanoi and its desire to progress and look to the future, most of the original prison has been demolished to make way for airline offices and a shopping mall – a good thing we decided! Another set piece was the one pillar pagoda and the 1000 year old Temple of Literature, but frankly by this time seen one pagoda, seen ‘em all. What we’ve really enjoyed about Hanoi is wandering through the old quarter with its narrow streets, it crazy mopeds and bikes, shops, shoe menders (Gil head her Crocs flip flops re treaded for an exorbitant £1,) tin streets, screwdriver streets, markets and just watching the real people. We find counterfeit street thinking “oh no, not more fake Louis’, but realise this is fake money, houses, cars mobiles etc ., all articles of daily life reproduced in paper to burn during ancestor worship. Hanoi is also famous for its water puppets, also situated in the Old Quarter; clever, but after half an hour of yet more discordant noise from the musicians we left mid show, we feel it is time they sent this 1000 year old tradition back to the paddy fields, or rename it “puppets in a puddle”! In the middle of this old quarter is our hotel, the Rising Dragon. Tall and thin, but reasonable rooms with aircon etc and Ant is enjoying the local pho (beef noodle soup) for his included breakfast, as well as the included wifi, all for our £10.23 a night. We have grown adept at negotiating good fares with cyclo drivers, most of whom have tried to rip us off, thinking we had arrived yesterday still wet behind the ears (big mistake, BIG, HUGE!), but having said that we have had some entertaining rides in them – the wrong way down one way streets, no stopping at lights – one cyclo driver (and bear in mind there were two of us in this rather small seat plus bags....) had his momentum going so well and was stopping for nothing; we went through everything - lights, pedestrians, cars, buses, and laughed all the way! We have drunk beer with locals, enjoyed the cool oasis of the City Centre lake, we have eaten in some great restaurants (see pic) and have enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere of this frenetic but friendly city that is dragging itself into the 21st century but still has a long way to go. We have also shopped - but perhaps more restrained than you would expect. Ant bought a kite (see pic), we are looking forward to tying it out on the common when we get back. Our overriding memory will be the noise of the motorbike horns, loud, incessant but, it appears, necessary – they are a bit like a river, ebbing and flowing, and to cross the road, you just go – we feel biblical, as we cross it seems as miraculous as the parting of the Red Sea! And talking of partings and miracles, Gill finally finds a REAL Toni & Guy – and has a great haircut by the Artistic Director for the princely sum of £16!
