Saturday 8 August 2009

"We're here to make a record" - we never thought we'd say that.. (Mon 3 August 2009)






















We are surprisingly nervous as we drove downtown to the Ryman to cut a track. The Ryman is a previous home of the Grand Old Opry and still has concerts there in the winter. Final rehearsals didn’t go well in the car – so we were apprehensive as we approached the front desk and said those immortal words – “we’re here to make a record!”
The recording studio had a panoramic view of the auditorium which only made things worse. The sound engineer put us at our ease and with headphones on and a microphone each – we did a dry run – shockingly bad, before we cut our track!!! Which is amazing and soon to be released.
We then hoofed it to Nashville’s Country Music Hall of fame, which has adopted all the famous country stars and has relics from each of them. Quite fun, especially as Gill was taken back to family parties and could sing along to many – then it hit her she was in a museum, ergo things are old, but the music was current when she was a little child at said parties.... Elivs’s gold Cadillac was worth seeing – a taste of Memphis to come we fear.
Today was going to be a hell of a drive and so to set us up we headed off 30 miles in the wrong direction for lunch. The Loveless cafe is famous for its Southern deep fried chicken and was heaving at 12.30. The chicken was huge bit was very good – served in down home southern style.
Our schlep cross country in the opposite direction continued as we headed deep into Southern Tennesse back roads to Lynchburg, the home of Jack Daniels and the source of inspiration for a 1000 tube posters. Tiny small towns with a courthouse in the centre and small western style shops all around. The whole of Tennesse is beautifully manicured and this area is no different. We stopped at a hamlet reminiscent of “back to the future” and a kindly man came over to offer help. This is the back of beyond and is another one of Ant’s mad ideas!
Lynchburg has been making Jack’s for 150 odd years, all of it coming from a spring in the garden of the distillery. The tour was interesting and folksy – only 14 people make all the Jacks. However, as it was a dry county we couldn’t even get a taste!!!

We didn’t want to leave but at 5pm it was finally time to start driving in the direction we originally intended and the six hour drive along back roads to Memphis. Empty smooth roads, very green trees and grass, beautifully manicured but a hell of a long way. It was dark for the last 2.5 hours which made it boring, but we sang along to the country radio station and listened to our own track more often than is healthy!!

Arrive at Heartbreak Hotel in Memphis gagging for a Jack Daniels. Just made it and started to absorb the international ambience and high tack, slightly grubby campness of the hotel. WT’s everywhere, worn carpet, Elvis posters and as tacky as you would imagine – what will tomorrow hold?