Saturday 13 February 2016

Mae Nam = Chinatown (7 - 13 February 2016)


Well for a few days at least. Over the Chinese New Year period Mae Nam seems to be the centre of everything dragon related. On the New Year's Eve it seemed that it was the business end of the dragon goings on. From about 5 pm the loud, rhythmic drums began and for the next three hours they continued. The parade started with the drum cart followed with some Disney like Chinese characters followed by the red lion. The long, dancing golden and red dragon brought up the rear. 

The long dragon visited every shop and restaurant in the two small streets that make up the village here. It really had to squeeze itself up to fit into some. I assume at some point money changed hands in return for this blessing. As the dragon left each establishment the loud firecrackers hanging in the doorways were lit. They really are loud! When the dragon had completed his visits he followed a man carrying a ball on a stick. This is the dragon chasing the "pearl of wisdom" which is how he pursues insight and knowledge, clever boy. Then the parade finally stopped under the colourful archway leading into the village from the main road and the acrobats came out. They did their usual death defying balancing acts the main one being the human tower, topped off by a tiny, tiny tot who looked about 18 months old. Health & Safety eat your heart out! Loads of people were out, westerners, locals, Chinese tourists in their red outfits. And I know everyone thinks it's just me who feels the cold but the little kids in their red party frocks were complaining of feeling cold and the locals had their hoodies on! The high winds made the thermometer really drop and I was in my long sleeved t shirt. The crowds and the dragon spilled out on to the main road and stopped the traffic in both directions for a good 15 minutes. Given this is the only main road round the island I guess a few people, especially if on their way to the airport wouldn't have been too pleased...

New Year's Day was party day. A huge party was planned for the evening on the beach but the high winds and waves had temporarily covered up the narrow strip of sand, the water was right up to the edge. That was the beach that was...

Some quick pre planning changes cordoned off a big area of the streets instead so everyone could squeeze into that. A big stage was built for the band, a big gazebo put up for the food, tables and chairs laid out. It was a great party! I even ate the food and survived to tell the tale. So not me to be eating food served out of huge vats which had probably been cooked hours ago.... Especially as there was no why why on offer.... The lion (2 men) did his dance, really clever leaping from one high podium to another. 

Then the dragon came in to do his bit. He came in with fireworks going off all along his back and then he breathed a firework fire. In the dark this looked great. He then managed to climb a high telegraph pole and breathed even more fire from the top. The acrobats that do all this stuff are so well coordinated but I think it's one of those things they practice year round. More acrobats followed and then there was a huge firework display. 

After all that the band came on. And the price per ticket for attending this extravaganza, including the food was all of 200 baht, less than £4. Bargain of the (new) year! And the rest of Mae Nam was heaving as well. All the stalls that normally come on Thursdays for Walking Street came and opened up, and people who weren't paying the 200 baht to go into the party were eating, drinking, shopping and wandering, a lovely atmosphere.


But all is back to usual here now, the temple shops that were selling Chinese lanterns have swiftly replaced their displays with red plastic roses, hearts and huge teddy bears ready for Valentine's. I guess Carrefour have also taken down their welcoming Chinese arch. And in Thailand of course there's always lots of new romances to celebrate.....