Gok Wan would be in seventh heaven, bangers everywhere – but more of that later ! Today we go the largest market in Central America at Chichicastanengo, known in these parts as Chichi. The van we went in reminded us of the one from the film bouncing along, The highlands were covered with small maize fields and tiny villages. Chichi was about an hour’s drive away, which was enough for us as we sitting in the jump seats of the van.
We hit a traffic jam on the outskirts of town and had to walk the rest of the way. This was great news as the jam was caused by a local festival/carnival that was parading through the town, The streets were lined with people, mostly in traditional dress ( which they all do anyway), beauty queens on the back of pick ups, marching bands, loads of balloons, colour, fun and of course, bangers and fire crackers, banging everywhere and making Gill jump every time! The bands were playing a variety of tunes from Felice Navidad to Rudolf the Red Nose reindeer in Spanish! There was exuberance and smiling faces all round – the streets were five deep of local people from the villages around, celebrating together. We were two of a handful of tourists – all the books say this is a genuine market but overrun with tourists – maybe we got lucky, but it wasn’t like that at all. It was a privilege to be somewhere where everyone was in local dress because that is what they wear, rather than for show.
We spent the morning walking around the market, the touristic stalls were mainly selling woven fabrics in bright Mayan colours . They were mostly lovely, but what to do with them? So purchases were limited to a few trinkets. The locals areas were much more interesting, in the way that only third world markets can be. Ant especially loved the mountains of chillies.
The church of San Thomas, built in 1540 overlooks the market square and is the centre of the community – it was all you would expect. The steep, uneven steps, painted white were full of flower sellers, people burning incense and resin and we had to pick our way through to get into the church. Inside was probably the most beautiful church Ant had ever seen (andhe doesn’t do churches….). It was naively simple decorated for Navidad, whitewashed, candles everywhere flickering away, a woman making her way up the aisle on her knees. The nativity scene all set up in its glory, but awaiting the baby Jesus, as all nativity scenes are in this part of the world. He is delivered (in more ways than one!) on Xmas eve. This brings us back to bangers! They are everywhere as local women seem to walk round with a child firmly attached suckling happily as she gossips away.
It was obviously a bad day for the traders – as we sat in the minibus to leave, a number of beggars came up – one really old lady almost sang in her pathos “mi tengo nada” (“I have nothing”) – we thought it was Shirley Bassey in disguise!
We hit a traffic jam on the outskirts of town and had to walk the rest of the way. This was great news as the jam was caused by a local festival/carnival that was parading through the town, The streets were lined with people, mostly in traditional dress ( which they all do anyway), beauty queens on the back of pick ups, marching bands, loads of balloons, colour, fun and of course, bangers and fire crackers, banging everywhere and making Gill jump every time! The bands were playing a variety of tunes from Felice Navidad to Rudolf the Red Nose reindeer in Spanish! There was exuberance and smiling faces all round – the streets were five deep of local people from the villages around, celebrating together. We were two of a handful of tourists – all the books say this is a genuine market but overrun with tourists – maybe we got lucky, but it wasn’t like that at all. It was a privilege to be somewhere where everyone was in local dress because that is what they wear, rather than for show.
We spent the morning walking around the market, the touristic stalls were mainly selling woven fabrics in bright Mayan colours . They were mostly lovely, but what to do with them? So purchases were limited to a few trinkets. The locals areas were much more interesting, in the way that only third world markets can be. Ant especially loved the mountains of chillies.
The church of San Thomas, built in 1540 overlooks the market square and is the centre of the community – it was all you would expect. The steep, uneven steps, painted white were full of flower sellers, people burning incense and resin and we had to pick our way through to get into the church. Inside was probably the most beautiful church Ant had ever seen (andhe doesn’t do churches….). It was naively simple decorated for Navidad, whitewashed, candles everywhere flickering away, a woman making her way up the aisle on her knees. The nativity scene all set up in its glory, but awaiting the baby Jesus, as all nativity scenes are in this part of the world. He is delivered (in more ways than one!) on Xmas eve. This brings us back to bangers! They are everywhere as local women seem to walk round with a child firmly attached suckling happily as she gossips away.
It was obviously a bad day for the traders – as we sat in the minibus to leave, a number of beggars came up – one really old lady almost sang in her pathos “mi tengo nada” (“I have nothing”) – we thought it was Shirley Bassey in disguise!
