We are getting so used to long mini bus shuttles, but at least today’s was punctuated with a few stops. We dropped from 2300m to 80m above sea level, the mountain scenery was great as we descended. Maize fields, small villages, banana groves. This road was the MX199 - which is notorious for highway hold-ups, but we made it!
First stop was Agua Azul, a series of stepped waterfalls, a nice shade of blue. Pretty, a tad touristy and to be honest we’d both seen waterfalls before. The same can be said for stop two, which was Misol Ha – a high waterfall, that had a walkway behind it which was fun, in the green steep sided valley.
We made it to Palenque by mid afternoon and had already decided not to stay in town but in the jungle. We didn’t pre book (you couldn’t!) but we landed on our feet at Ed and Margerita’s, part of a hippy commune known as El Panchan. We were dropped on the main road and had to make our way up a dirt track deeper and deeper into the jungle! But we got delightful little rooms up another dark windy path, a stream on one side. It had a great vibe and we spent the afternoon swapping traveller’s tales in the communal restaurant called Don Mucho which serves the best pizzas in the jungle! We loved the live music, little stalls selling home made hippy jewellery and we are glad to report that the rum and orange juice was up to standard.
The real reason we are here is to visit one of Mexico’s main archaeological sites, those of Palenque. We flagged down a collectivo on the road to take us there. Bearing in mind neither of us are that interested in ruins, we took it slowly but didn’t bother with the guide. But to be fair they are 1400 years old and in quite good nick, and the parkland and jungle surrounding them very well kept. We even had Gill clambering up steep steps like a mountain goat (well perhaps that’s pushing it a bit far…..). After three hours, lunch called!We have met up again with Emma and Elliot and Chris and Emily (salsa piquante experts!) who have been travelling the same route. (see pics). The recommended one was Chimay Salsa Habinero Amarillo Extra Piquante - look out for it in Tesco's.... We are sitting here having just finished dinner before we go for the bus and an “artisan” has just come around selling home made chocolate and biscuits – expensive but good.. All made from locally grown chocolate. Must go, the bus is due to leave at 11.35 pm!
