Long before we got to Caye Caulker we had heard of Juni. Initially from some Belgians in Guatemala, then from a number of blogs. He is not mentioned in any guide books, keeping a low profile on the raised porch of his home on Front St., Caye Caulker. His sign doesn’t stand out amongst the snorkelling and dive shops and if we hadn’t heard of him I wouldn’t have noticed. That would have been a mistake.
For two days, I had been calling in on him, to see when he was next going snorkelling. I was persistent despite his initial gruffness. Finally on our last full day here, at 9.45 am he decided that he was going, and so along I went. There were only four of us, in his small, hand made wooden sail boat.
He must be in his late 70’s, was born into a fishing family from Caye Caulker, in fact he was born on a boat offshore, He has made his living from the sea, mainly as a boat builder. But for the last 40 years, he has been helping tourists experience the reef and has a unique approach that sets him apart from your regular snorkelling guides.
His little sailboat is delightful, he built it himself, we sailed north towards San Pedro. He hates San Pedro and hasn’t been there for 30 years, despite it being the neighbouring island. He abhors the tourist development and fears for Caye Caulker’s future. I had read so much about him and how the fish love him and play with him, but I was sceptical and so when we arrived at Shark and Ray Alley I was excited to be getting into the water to see if it was all true. OMG – the fish came like he was a fish magnet They swarmed him.We were swimming in clear water maybe five metres deep. We could see a large stingray lying on the seabed half covered in sand. It was about 1.5m across and the same length. Juni dived down in front of the ray, rubbed his fingers and then the magic happened. The ray sprang into life, went straight for him as if the fish was delighted to see him. Swimming with him and around him, in his arms, he carried it gently to the surface and brought it to me, indicated that I should get onto my back. He placed this enormous, ever so soft and gentle fish on my chest and it gently swam away, turned around and came back. Remember, these were the fish that killed Steve Urwin. He did this over and over again, No food, no tricks, just him, the fish and us. Amazing. Like nothing I’d ever seen before.
At the second stop Hol Chan, there was a break in the reef and a deep channel. Again, we snorkelled for an hour or so. Following Juni as he led us along, pointing out nurse sharks, barracuda, parrot fish, groupers and large green moray eels. At one point as we swam across the 20m deep break in the reef, we were swimming directly above an enormous eagle ray, whose tail must have been two metres long.
What a great day, made better spending it with Juni and his little sailboat. There was a little wind to blow us home.
