Friday, 21 January 2011

Caribbean Rituals (20 January 2011)

Cruise TT, the trusty website that tells you which ships are in which port and how many passengers they disgorge on to the tiny streets of Caribbean capitals failed me today for the first time. Its info said that today was a cruse ship free day in St John's, and whilst that did mean a quieter beach, I thought it would be nice to see the town in its "natural" state, with just the usual day to day comings and goings. But no such luck. I decide to go in as I was also in need of a decent coffee and aimed for the Starbucks looky-likey, tasty-likey Ritual's coffee shop that Ant and I had discovered last time we were here. Amma blessed me after I had climbed the steep hill out of the hotel to the main road with a No 50 minibus turning up just as I got there. I paid my three EC dollars and clambered in. It was full of Mum's and tiny babies, perhaps it is clinic day. And I find myself in familiar territory as the bus winds its way through the same streets Ant and I had found ourselves in when we missed our turn trying to find the cricket stadium last time I have to say, they look a lot less threatening in the daylight! And news, the KFC on the road out is being demolished, ready for a sparkly new one or have the Antiguan's discovered it 'aint so finger lickin' good as they thought?



But arrival in town greets me with another familiar sight, the Costa Mediterranea that Ant and I saw in another port somewhere, was it Dominica or was it even here and I am having some sort of Groundhog day? No empty town after all. The taxi touts exhorting me to visit a beautiful beach, or to make up a party to go on a round island tour were still there, as were the shops selling the usual overpriced stuff. Back towards the market nothing much had changed, the old ladies spreading out their few veg for sale on the pavement, the meat market, the fish market, the Western bus station, yep, Groundhog day it is! I even board the same minibus as last time, but at least this time I don't need to find the Eastern bus station......


The bus waits a while before leaving, a few more passengers needed to make it worth the driver's while and I am amused by the sight of a group of drivers playing a raucous gambling game, right next to the big sign forbidding gambling (and other unsavoury activities) in the bus station, and also playing was the burly uniformed security guard. There are plenty of spare seats in the minibus, but next to me sits a large rasta, complete with a set of gold teeth that would rock the gold market if he ever had them taken out. Eventually he sparks up a conversation, asking me if I am Dutch, how long I've been here etc. Strangely, when I tell him of my husband back at the hotel he doesn't bother again.... Obviously he realises I am comfortable enough here....


The one thing today that is not Groundhog however, is the weather. It's perfect blue sky, a slight breeze, and even the Caribbean is behaving itself and is back to the turquoise benign sea that one expects, a change from the rougher waves of the last few days and the higher tides around the full moon.
But did I speak too soon... tonight it has been pouring with rain, enough to cancel the karaoke that was planned in the beach restaurant a few metres from my room, shame......
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