You are dropped off at the end of a huge long drive surrounded by lovely lawns and fantastic sea views all around and take the leisurely, but hot walk up. There is a free trolley that goes up there and around the town but I decided not to be a geriatric and take a walk.
The city wall surrounds the whole town almost, I walked a bit of it but there were shops to be visited too....These poor people have been attacked by so many nations over the years, it was such a prize as the gateway to the spices and riches of the Caribbean and even old Sir Francis Drake had a go on our behalf, but these forts helped to repel boarders and keep them Spanish. Wonder what it was was that made them fall to the mighty US in the end....
After my history lesson I walk down into the town. Slightly hilly, with narrow cobbled streets, lovely old Spanish style churches and joy of joys, lots of oulet stores, but all tucked away behind the facades of the old buildings.
Very European feel to it with lovely wrought iron balconies overhanging the street. I visited the San Juan Cathedral and lit a candle for Kev. Retail therapy called and I treated myself to a nice Coach bag, a real bargain. But amidst these shops near Pigeon Park was a man selling pigeon (rats with wings in my view....) food, and people were throwing it everywhere as flocks of the things flew around your head. Gross. I managed to walk by without being attacked but had to go round the block to get back to where I wanted to be as I couldn't face being near them again. It was like that awful Alfred Hitchcock film...
Quite a laid back place though, the security guard by La Fortaleza, the Governor's House was listening to his iPod whilst keeping a hand on the gun on his belt....
But more history lessons were needed so I take myself off to Barrachina's, an old bar/restaurant where they invented the Pina Colada in 1963, sad to think I'm older than a Pina Colada...... A great place, full of character and music, but any hopes of a Tom Cruise lookalike mixing my said Pina Colada were soon dashed. They first ask you if you want rum in it, a particularly stupid question if you ask me. Then they proceed to pump a semi frozen colada mix from an ice cream type machine, float the rum on the top, and add the obligatory cherry and pineapple on the paper umbrella. Not sure this was how they were served in days gone by, but no matter, it tasted great. Went well with the chicken sandwich.....
A few more shops, but nothing caught my eye, so found the bus station to come back. It went all round the houses rather than on the six lane highway so I saw a bit more of what makes up urban San Juan. Past the huge cruise ship docks and equally large convention centre, then on to Condado, the strip immediately outside the town. Bordering the sea, it is fully developed with huge hotel and condo blocks, all of the usual suspects are here, Sheraton, Hilton, Conrad. One hotel I have yet to find is the Hotel Cardiovascular - who the hell would want to stay somewhere called that! The hotels and condo's, although rather crowded together looked quite posh, and the odd designer stores dotted about just confirmed this. I'm obviously in the (relatively.....) cheap seats out in Isla Verde.... But hidden amongst the condo's are some amazing old Spanish Villas and small, green park areas, it reminded me of Recoletta in Buenos Aires. We then wend our way through Loiza, not posh at all and very barrio like. Finally we get to the area I am staying and on this occasion, unlike Antigua, I manage not to miss my stop!
So from what I've seen, a good plan here would be to stay in the old town, but the trick seems to be to book early (which on this occasion I failed to do, and think accomodation in the old town is very limited). It would be a great place in the evening. After that, get a car, head for the hills and other beaches, but avoid these close to San Juan like the plague..... Hindsight is such a wonderful thing! But I'm glad I came, it was really good to see it, and a two day stop before the long slog tomorrow....
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