Ohm…………………… (19 – 21 December 2008)
“Everyone in the world should be able to sleep without fear, at least for one night. Everyone should be able to eat his fill, at least for one day. There should be at least one day when hospitals see no one admitted due to violence.
By doing selfless service for at least one day, everyone should help the poor and needy. It is Amma’s prayer that at least this small dream be realised”
Sri Mata Amritanandamayi Devi – Known as Amma (Mother)
Our spiritual journey commenced with a punt across a backwater and falling out with the ferryman over two rupees. It was an inauspicious start… It was with some trepidation that we entered the ashram compound and another world. The temple and the red floored yard looked like a scene from “one flew over the cuckoo’s nest” with the inmates wandering around the inner courtyard of a lunatic asylum, as white garbed devotees floated around with beatific smiles on their faces. Another of Ant’s ideas – what have we done. We were required to give our spiritual names at check in – from here on in let it be known that we now wish to be addressed as “Shanti” and “Shilli”. Gill had been dreading this for months and had visions of it being like H block of the Maze prison – she wasn’t far wrong and she burst in to tears as we removed the padlock from the door to the room! Two plastic chairs were padlocked to a bedframe. There was a plastic mattress on the floor, a metal wardrobe stuffed to the gills with someone else’s belongings and a “bathroom” that will haunt Gill for many a year! And this was an upgrade – we were faking it as a couple so at least we could have a room – the alternative was single sex dorms. The walls were dirty – the windows had bars and there was no bedding, towels, pillows – not even those lovely little soap things one has come to expect. We never did get bedding – it could be hired for the day from central stores but we forgot – so we slept for two nights with no bedding, pillows or towels – Ant squelching and sticking to his plastic mattress on the floor (he was a gent and offered Gill the material one – lovely!) There was no pleasure to be had spending much time in this room so went for an explore. Things went downhill. The ashram compound was made up of several tower blocks in a dirty shade of pink and accommodated up to 2000 people. The main temple, surrounded by little shops and offices and then the Darshan Hall, open to the elements on three sides and dominated at the front by a huge stage featuring big images of Amma and which could seat 3000. There were kitchens, eating areas, laundries, ecology offices, printing press, ayurvedic clinics, and joy of joys a shop selling the music, pictures and icons of Amma in all her glory. There were far more Indians than Westerners but it was the Westerners we noticed. They all looked a “certain type” – had they been British (but they weren’t, they were American, German and French) they would have been Guardian readers. 80% female, all clad in white (actually grey white – the laundry can’t be that good) saris and togas, with this self satisfied smug expression on their faces. We christened them the “Self Satisfied Clingons” (SSC’s). The way we were dressed was totally unsuitable so it didn’t take long to nip into the Ashram shop and kit ourselves out in modest white cotton outfits as required (see pics ). We were the only two that accessorised with sunglasses, baseball hat, beads and bangles – we needed to boost the Ashram chic quotient – even though we may have stood out over the two days. This Ashram shop “for all your Ashram needs” was also available to supply us with loo paper and soap and a metal mug (see later).
Feeling more at home we went to Banjans (devotional singing) session – it shows how desperate we were, but we enjoyed it! But we were multi tasking, reading and Ant sending e mails on his blackberry during them. At the end of the Banjans we queued to inhale the smoke and throw petals at Amma’s altar on the stage.
An important element of an Ashram visits is Seva – selfless service – this is how the ashram runs and anyone staying is expected to contribute. Gill has been dreading this too imagining she will be given toilet duties (she had even packed rubber gloves just in case). However, our seva was to set up and run some stalls in the flea market on Sunday morning – we didn’t actually bother doing it as we’d lost interest by then.
Food was a trial for the three days – basically the £2 accommodation charge includes three free meals a day and two “chai” breaks. This food is slopped to the masses out of huge stainless steel vats into stainless steel bowls – it reminded Gill of Biafra! No such gruel passed our lips. We feasted on vegan biscuits, coconuts, and crisps and Kits Kats from a local shop. We did however have to buy our own stainless steel mug as we really didn’t fancy the others after our first experience. We’d had a hot drink, and feeling charitable Ant decided not to leave the cups on the table so we asked one of the SSC’s where to put them. With a smile he was informed to go to the trough (water piped in directly from the backwaters, and fittingly, the Ashram version of fairy liquid was a tub of ash to use if any scouring were needed!) and wash it for himself and then to go the racks to dry it with some grubby, homespun cotton organic teatowels – it was never like this in Starbucks. Our only escape was in a filthy little café down a lane, just outside the ashram which sold drinking coconuts and cokes. We were frequent visitors for a fix. We were impressed however with the speed the Ashram managed to feed the 2000 inmates – the line moved quickly as people stood clutching their metal plates and tins like something from Auschwitz.
Determined to experience everything we tried to slot it all in. A typical day: (4.50am – 6am) the chanting of the 1000 names of the Divine Mother in the chanting hall – Ant did this. Followed by Ashtanga yoga class (7.30am – 9am) – Ant did this. Breakfast 9am – even Gill got to this but only for a vegan biscuit! The majority of the day was taken up with the Darshan or blessing of which more later. But there was meditation on the beach 5pm – 6pm – Ant did this. 6.30 pm more Banjans – Ant and Gill did this. Dinner was at 9pm – but this didn’t happen for either of us and we were physically locked in our rooms by 11pm. Did we mention the bar? No, as there wasn’t one! We are proud to say that despite smuggling gin in a Sprite bottle neither of us touched it for two days.
By day two we needed a break, so wearing full Ashram garb we escaped by crossing the river over the Ashram bridge – had we still had our passports (these were taken on arrival) we may not have gone back! But to be fair to Amma and the Ashram, at no point did anyone ever try to persuade us to give money – in fact we still don’t know how to donate even if we wanted to – we were always there of our own free will and no one tried to sign us up for anything –perhaps we were giving out less than “potential devotee” vibes!!
We are glad we visited and we valued the experience but it was with a huge sigh of relief that we left – taking all the pics and video we could as we had been denied this for two days.
We are unlikely to bless Amma again with our presence, and you can now all be witness to Ant’s promise never to come up with such a stupid idea ever again……
“Everyone in the world should be able to sleep without fear, at least for one night. Everyone should be able to eat his fill, at least for one day. There should be at least one day when hospitals see no one admitted due to violence.
By doing selfless service for at least one day, everyone should help the poor and needy. It is Amma’s prayer that at least this small dream be realised”
Sri Mata Amritanandamayi Devi – Known as Amma (Mother)
Our spiritual journey commenced with a punt across a backwater and falling out with the ferryman over two rupees. It was an inauspicious start… It was with some trepidation that we entered the ashram compound and another world. The temple and the red floored yard looked like a scene from “one flew over the cuckoo’s nest” with the inmates wandering around the inner courtyard of a lunatic asylum, as white garbed devotees floated around with beatific smiles on their faces. Another of Ant’s ideas – what have we done. We were required to give our spiritual names at check in – from here on in let it be known that we now wish to be addressed as “Shanti” and “Shilli”. Gill had been dreading this for months and had visions of it being like H block of the Maze prison – she wasn’t far wrong and she burst in to tears as we removed the padlock from the door to the room! Two plastic chairs were padlocked to a bedframe. There was a plastic mattress on the floor, a metal wardrobe stuffed to the gills with someone else’s belongings and a “bathroom” that will haunt Gill for many a year! And this was an upgrade – we were faking it as a couple so at least we could have a room – the alternative was single sex dorms. The walls were dirty – the windows had bars and there was no bedding, towels, pillows – not even those lovely little soap things one has come to expect. We never did get bedding – it could be hired for the day from central stores but we forgot – so we slept for two nights with no bedding, pillows or towels – Ant squelching and sticking to his plastic mattress on the floor (he was a gent and offered Gill the material one – lovely!) There was no pleasure to be had spending much time in this room so went for an explore. Things went downhill. The ashram compound was made up of several tower blocks in a dirty shade of pink and accommodated up to 2000 people. The main temple, surrounded by little shops and offices and then the Darshan Hall, open to the elements on three sides and dominated at the front by a huge stage featuring big images of Amma and which could seat 3000. There were kitchens, eating areas, laundries, ecology offices, printing press, ayurvedic clinics, and joy of joys a shop selling the music, pictures and icons of Amma in all her glory. There were far more Indians than Westerners but it was the Westerners we noticed. They all looked a “certain type” – had they been British (but they weren’t, they were American, German and French) they would have been Guardian readers. 80% female, all clad in white (actually grey white – the laundry can’t be that good) saris and togas, with this self satisfied smug expression on their faces. We christened them the “Self Satisfied Clingons” (SSC’s). The way we were dressed was totally unsuitable so it didn’t take long to nip into the Ashram shop and kit ourselves out in modest white cotton outfits as required (see pics ). We were the only two that accessorised with sunglasses, baseball hat, beads and bangles – we needed to boost the Ashram chic quotient – even though we may have stood out over the two days. This Ashram shop “for all your Ashram needs” was also available to supply us with loo paper and soap and a metal mug (see later).
Feeling more at home we went to Banjans (devotional singing) session – it shows how desperate we were, but we enjoyed it! But we were multi tasking, reading and Ant sending e mails on his blackberry during them. At the end of the Banjans we queued to inhale the smoke and throw petals at Amma’s altar on the stage.
An important element of an Ashram visits is Seva – selfless service – this is how the ashram runs and anyone staying is expected to contribute. Gill has been dreading this too imagining she will be given toilet duties (she had even packed rubber gloves just in case). However, our seva was to set up and run some stalls in the flea market on Sunday morning – we didn’t actually bother doing it as we’d lost interest by then.
Food was a trial for the three days – basically the £2 accommodation charge includes three free meals a day and two “chai” breaks. This food is slopped to the masses out of huge stainless steel vats into stainless steel bowls – it reminded Gill of Biafra! No such gruel passed our lips. We feasted on vegan biscuits, coconuts, and crisps and Kits Kats from a local shop. We did however have to buy our own stainless steel mug as we really didn’t fancy the others after our first experience. We’d had a hot drink, and feeling charitable Ant decided not to leave the cups on the table so we asked one of the SSC’s where to put them. With a smile he was informed to go to the trough (water piped in directly from the backwaters, and fittingly, the Ashram version of fairy liquid was a tub of ash to use if any scouring were needed!) and wash it for himself and then to go the racks to dry it with some grubby, homespun cotton organic teatowels – it was never like this in Starbucks. Our only escape was in a filthy little café down a lane, just outside the ashram which sold drinking coconuts and cokes. We were frequent visitors for a fix. We were impressed however with the speed the Ashram managed to feed the 2000 inmates – the line moved quickly as people stood clutching their metal plates and tins like something from Auschwitz.
Determined to experience everything we tried to slot it all in. A typical day: (4.50am – 6am) the chanting of the 1000 names of the Divine Mother in the chanting hall – Ant did this. Followed by Ashtanga yoga class (7.30am – 9am) – Ant did this. Breakfast 9am – even Gill got to this but only for a vegan biscuit! The majority of the day was taken up with the Darshan or blessing of which more later. But there was meditation on the beach 5pm – 6pm – Ant did this. 6.30 pm more Banjans – Ant and Gill did this. Dinner was at 9pm – but this didn’t happen for either of us and we were physically locked in our rooms by 11pm. Did we mention the bar? No, as there wasn’t one! We are proud to say that despite smuggling gin in a Sprite bottle neither of us touched it for two days.
By day two we needed a break, so wearing full Ashram garb we escaped by crossing the river over the Ashram bridge – had we still had our passports (these were taken on arrival) we may not have gone back! But to be fair to Amma and the Ashram, at no point did anyone ever try to persuade us to give money – in fact we still don’t know how to donate even if we wanted to – we were always there of our own free will and no one tried to sign us up for anything –perhaps we were giving out less than “potential devotee” vibes!!
We are glad we visited and we valued the experience but it was with a huge sigh of relief that we left – taking all the pics and video we could as we had been denied this for two days.
We are unlikely to bless Amma again with our presence, and you can now all be witness to Ant’s promise never to come up with such a stupid idea ever again……
