Leaving Deryn behind after an all too short meeting up, I finally leave India on a great Jet Airways flight to Singapore. Flat bed, good champagne and a pair of ‘jamas meant a good sleep on the 6 hour flight. Singapore is an odd choice of destination I know, but it’s the way my ticket works – they only way I could route through India was to use Singapore as the Asian hub. I thought I had left India behind, only to discover that my hotel, the Albert Court is actually in Little India in Singapore. But as you would expect, the India of Singapore is rather cleaner than the real one! Perhaps think of it as the Disney version of India and you will get the picture. It was fantastic wandering about today to be met with no litter, loos I could happily use, Starbucks and other places I could frequent, a choice. And the smells were mostly Indian – but just all the good ones, flowers, jasmine and incense! Not something I would want all the time as you may as well stay at home for all that, but after the real India a couple of days and a Starbuck’s in sparkling Singapore is most welcome.
The Albert Court hotel is originally a pre war shophouse. There is a modern annexe but my room is in the little original courtyard – a really nice change from the high rise hotels that dominate the City. The location is also great too – virtually next door to one of the three main IT malls in the City – I had a good wander today looking for my usual “tech fix” but the collapse of the pound on the fx markets means that bargains in this area are no longer to be had. Have just checked online and the dinky little projector that connects to my iPod to see my movies on the wall (Ant is responsible for telling me about this little piece of new technology) is £240 at home and £350 here, even with the tax rebate. It’s a great pity as a “tech fix” from foreign climes is often one of my trip highlights!
It looks like I have just missed the Chinese New Year – I think the big day may have been yesterday – some of the shops are still closed. But those that are open all seem to be being visited in turn by a couple of “lions” who are accompanied by loud drums beating – all to do with bringing prosperity in the coming year – I guess the world needs a bit of that. And McDonald’s are doing their bit with a “mega prosperity burger” on the menu. Perhaps I better eat one of those to win the lottery…. It’s a real combination of the old and the new. Today at the futuristic IT Mall, there were shops selling all the latest gizmo’s, but in the big “space” on the ground floor there was an amazing display by traditional lion dancers. Two people covered in an intricate lion costume (think pantomime horse) doing all sorts of acrobatic tricks in traditional displays – still accompanied by deafening drums and symbols, and really clever. Whilst doing all these acrobatic moves, they still manage to change the expression on the lion’s face. (see – and hear! Vid). They also seem to leave a display or offering after they have done their bit at each shop – mandarin oranges and chilli’s seem to be the thing, it must be their new year tradition. In fact mandarin oranges seem big everywhere, there are displays wherever you look and after dinner tonight I was presented with one together with New Year greetings from the waiter. One of my favourite traditions though is the fact that whilst you do a big spring clean before New Year, all brooms and brushes must be put away in a cupboard by New Year’s Eve. After that, you can’t do any cleaning as you may brush any good luck out of the house. Given the Chinese New Year celebrations seem to last about a month, it seems a great plan to me!
Singapore continues to be one huge shopping mall, and is even smarter than last time I was here. Any of the old, slightly tired shopping areas have been knocked down and replaced with shiny new ones. The only street stall I saw was one lonely one on a street corner near the hotel – but as he was advertising himself as “a genuine durian seller”, I think (and smelled!) the reason why! Even the old food courts that used to be open on all sides have been closed in and airconditioned.
So Singapore remains a “Stepford Wife” sort of city, clean, green and politically correct, though as a visitor you are in continual fear of unwittingly breaking a rule – terrified of crossing the road and being arrested for jaywalking! But they are not complacent – there are signs everywhere exhorting you to take care saying “low crime does not mean no crime”. The airport is great (and even better than before as it is gradually being refurbished). The downside is the cost (not helped by the exchange rate of course). Taxis are costly especially as you have to pay any of the ERP (Electronic Road Pricing) fees that you trigger on any journey. But they work – no traffic jams, and pedestrian crossings where drivers actually stop – such a change from India!
So as a stopover I really enjoyed it more than I have before – but of course in “the old days” I was usually passing through for a day on my way home and back to work – hooray, this time I could enjoy it as a place on a bigger adventure – lucky me!
The Albert Court hotel is originally a pre war shophouse. There is a modern annexe but my room is in the little original courtyard – a really nice change from the high rise hotels that dominate the City. The location is also great too – virtually next door to one of the three main IT malls in the City – I had a good wander today looking for my usual “tech fix” but the collapse of the pound on the fx markets means that bargains in this area are no longer to be had. Have just checked online and the dinky little projector that connects to my iPod to see my movies on the wall (Ant is responsible for telling me about this little piece of new technology) is £240 at home and £350 here, even with the tax rebate. It’s a great pity as a “tech fix” from foreign climes is often one of my trip highlights!
It looks like I have just missed the Chinese New Year – I think the big day may have been yesterday – some of the shops are still closed. But those that are open all seem to be being visited in turn by a couple of “lions” who are accompanied by loud drums beating – all to do with bringing prosperity in the coming year – I guess the world needs a bit of that. And McDonald’s are doing their bit with a “mega prosperity burger” on the menu. Perhaps I better eat one of those to win the lottery…. It’s a real combination of the old and the new. Today at the futuristic IT Mall, there were shops selling all the latest gizmo’s, but in the big “space” on the ground floor there was an amazing display by traditional lion dancers. Two people covered in an intricate lion costume (think pantomime horse) doing all sorts of acrobatic tricks in traditional displays – still accompanied by deafening drums and symbols, and really clever. Whilst doing all these acrobatic moves, they still manage to change the expression on the lion’s face. (see – and hear! Vid). They also seem to leave a display or offering after they have done their bit at each shop – mandarin oranges and chilli’s seem to be the thing, it must be their new year tradition. In fact mandarin oranges seem big everywhere, there are displays wherever you look and after dinner tonight I was presented with one together with New Year greetings from the waiter. One of my favourite traditions though is the fact that whilst you do a big spring clean before New Year, all brooms and brushes must be put away in a cupboard by New Year’s Eve. After that, you can’t do any cleaning as you may brush any good luck out of the house. Given the Chinese New Year celebrations seem to last about a month, it seems a great plan to me!
Singapore continues to be one huge shopping mall, and is even smarter than last time I was here. Any of the old, slightly tired shopping areas have been knocked down and replaced with shiny new ones. The only street stall I saw was one lonely one on a street corner near the hotel – but as he was advertising himself as “a genuine durian seller”, I think (and smelled!) the reason why! Even the old food courts that used to be open on all sides have been closed in and airconditioned.
So Singapore remains a “Stepford Wife” sort of city, clean, green and politically correct, though as a visitor you are in continual fear of unwittingly breaking a rule – terrified of crossing the road and being arrested for jaywalking! But they are not complacent – there are signs everywhere exhorting you to take care saying “low crime does not mean no crime”. The airport is great (and even better than before as it is gradually being refurbished). The downside is the cost (not helped by the exchange rate of course). Taxis are costly especially as you have to pay any of the ERP (Electronic Road Pricing) fees that you trigger on any journey. But they work – no traffic jams, and pedestrian crossings where drivers actually stop – such a change from India!
So as a stopover I really enjoyed it more than I have before – but of course in “the old days” I was usually passing through for a day on my way home and back to work – hooray, this time I could enjoy it as a place on a bigger adventure – lucky me!
