Saturday 7 February 2009

What's Wat in Chiang Mai (30 January - 5 February 2009)
















I end up in Chiang Mai for rather longer than I wanted due to the vagaries of both flight and boat schedules. I was wafted from Singapore by Cathay to Bangkok and then to here on a Thai Airways jumbo – a bit over the top for a 50 minute flight, and also quite empty. In the Upper deck I was one of only six passengers. But I am glad I did – it’s a really nice place. Billed as Thailand’s second city, I expected a smaller Bangkok. But it’s not like that at all. The only high rises are a couple of ugly international hotels in the new town. I had opted for a boutique hotel, the Bodhi Serene, right in the middle of the old walled town. It was lovely. Named after the two large Bodhi trees in the gardens - as in the trees Buddha sat under as he was getting enlightened. And serene I guess as it was a haven of peace in a bustling old town with great coffee shops, restaurants and shops. The hotel rooms were beautiful and there was fantastic pool on the second floor. Lots of dark wood, but minimalist and open with fabulous bathrooms. I was happy to while away a few days here.
So the days were spent walking around – especially around the old crumbling walls that encircle the old town. And that is surrounded by a moat which is now peppered with a series of fountains. It’s a good place to just wander and see where you end up. And at every turn you find a “Wat” or Buddhist temple. All of which seem to be fully operational with monasteries attached. There was always a monk sitting cross legged on a table awaiting offerings like a bride at a wedding reception. Sadly, I didn’t find the orange robe shop (the most common offering it seems) so was unable to oblige on that front. It was also great to get all my laundry done, and it came out clean and ironed and smelling sweet.
The town doesn’t seem to wake up till about midday (suits me!) and most of the action is at night in the night bazaars. Also there is a fantastic Sunday market. Stalls full of tat spill out over most of the streets of the old town. Full of the usual, as well as a big selection of hilltribe handicrafts but some nice things too and a great place to people watch. There were also many more Thais than tourists so it at least felt like a genuine experience.
So I let the days waft serenely by as well as completing the domestic duties of laundry, getting a Vietnamese visa, stocking up at Boots, shopping and then having to send a parcel home as the suitcase was getting too full!