Tuesday 15 December 2009

The long haul back up the Pacific Slope (13 December 2009)







Long convoluted story, we needed to get right up to Lake Aititlan but the regular shuttles didn’t fit time wise and we have yet to gain enough courage to get on a series of “chicken buses”. We give in and book a “shuttle privado” to get us back to Antugua before we join the regular shuttle. Fab we thought, tinted windows, complimentary drinks, cold towels – you get the picture. Imagine our surprise when our vehicle arrived – it was a pick up truck! Yes, those windows that were still in one piece were actually tinted. Reading matter was old newspapers on the floor along with old oil cans….. But it was quite warm down at sea level so I guess the additional breeze was a bonus. Our backpacks were thrown onto the open back – we hoped they wouldn’t be liberated if we had to stop at traffic lights (no prob as it turned out, there are no traffic lights!) We also picked up in the pick up – the driver’s girlfriend hopped in a few miles into the journey – I guess he wanted company on the way back. We didn’t hit it off – I was in the cramped back bench and attempted a polite question – she answered yes and then whispered to the driver “Hablas con la Nina” (she speaks like a child) I shut up after that! Interestingly Ant was insulted in Antigua whilst we waited for our shuttle – on refusing to buy yet another proffered textile for “only one dollar”, he was called a “cerdo gordo” – they really should know that we are not all Americans who don’t bother to learn the language…… But apart from that and to be fair, he was a good driver and very careful on the road back. We passed Fuego again, the active volcano – it is still spouting ash and magma and form the side we now saw looked like a pointy cake with icing drizzling down the sides – very impressive.
A quick coffee in our favourite coffee shop in Antigua and then we join the shuttle to take us to Lake Aititlan. We had a bit of a walk to the “shuttle stop” feeling like real backpackers, as we sat on the pavement waiting.
As sardines – the shuttle full to bursting (bags piled on the top) we take the 146kms, 2 ½ hour journey through windy roads and changing scenery as we climb further into the Western Highlands. The flora changes and at time looks almost Alpine. Everyone waves as we drive by. All the locals are dressed in local costume – so at least we know it’s not just for las touristas. The full to bursting shuttle van made its way into the Lake Aititlan Valley – a very steep, tortuous road. We stopped to drop some people just outside Panajachel, and white smoke from the brakes poured up. Just as we started again there was a very loud hiss – and the resulting flayt tyre. So we all had to get out whilst the poor driver had to change it. We were pleased (to say the least…..) that the tyre didn’t blow out as we weaved down that very steep hill. We were due to check into a homestay tonight – staying with an indigenous family outside the town in a local village. But the nearer we got and realised that for Gill the bathroom situation would be a bit iffy, (This is Ant – don’t know why Gill worries about bathrooms, neither of us have showered for days and are quite enjoying the grime!! ) for Ant the food situation would be a bit iffy, and for both of us the effort required to spend an evening with a family who speak no English was all too much. The realisation that they probably didn’t have Sky so we couldn’t settle down and watch the X Factor final with them made our decision for us…. We found a swish-ish hotel (£22 a night but really nice) and decent bathrooms so checked in! As it happened we watched the live final of Central America’s X Factor (La Academica) as we ate a poor imitation of pizza for dinner.

Panajachel (Pana) has a great hippy vibe about – most people told us that it’s awful , but we think it’s really nice…. Not sure what that says about us…. We have sunset drinks overlooking the lake – it is amazing and spectacular, but more about that over the next few blogs.