Saturday 29 January 2011

A Rum Do (28 January 2011)

As when I landed in Antigua, I thought I had arrived in the UK, when we touch down in San Juan, Puerto Rico, this was very clearly a little bit of the US in the Caribbean. Whilst not a US state, everything about it is American. The Department of Homeland Security greet you, much more politely I have to say than their LAX, NYC or Miami counterparts. The airport is real, that is, it's big with lots of corridors and trolleys and baggage carousels which I have not seen since leaving the UK.



The brands are everywhere, Wendy's, Starbucks, Burger King, McDonalds, Taco Bell but the big difference is that everyone speaks Spanish, and the big brand signs are in Spanish too - Burger King advertising "desayuno" for example. Walgreen's is a "Farmacia" - I do like a Walgreen's, that mix of Boots and Superdrug with a bit of Woolie's thrown in! But of course, being a fluent Spanish speaker, this holds no terrors for me......


There also seems to be some discussion on the validity of claiming this as a new pin for a new country. It's not a US state, and those people who may wish to go sailing in the US Virgin Islands and claim that as a new pin, may wish to think on. Their positions in relation to the US are identical.......
Originally, I was coming here for about nine days, but the more I looked at it, the less I was sure and changed it to the two days I have planned now. As we flew in and I could see the lie of the land, I think I made the right choice. It looks from the air like a combination of Cancun and Miami Beach with long six lane highways running parallel to the coast, and huge 60's design, ugly cubic high rises competing for space along the beach.


The hotel I am in, the Verdanza, in Isla Verde, is a bit flasher than I wanted. All the more charming smaller hotels were either booked or the TripAdisor reviews made them sound both dirty and dangerous. Appears it's a place to be careful of at night in some areas.



I had originally booked to stay in the Old Town, but hotels.com managed to cock up the booking, so I am here. I am one block from the beach so as I arrive at lunchtime, I decide to take a walk down and find some lunch. I manage to penetrate the jungle of concrete condo's that border the beach, with limited acces to the beach between them through heavilly graffitied narrow alley ways.....


The beach itself is wide, with big breaking waves and the overwhelming rusty, metallic smell of seaweed which separates the sea from the beach in a wide, dark swathe. I don't know if this is normal for here or whether there has been some sort of storm out at sea washing it all in. Whatever, it's not too pleasant. The walk was bracing as the sand stung my legs as it blew about. It felt and smelt more like Southport than any Caribbean Island I know, but I suppose I shouldn't judge the whole island on this beach, am sure there are more "Caribbean" areas. And there is a great area of rainforest - which I won't see as I am going shopping tomorrow instead! Now that is supposed to be good......
On a more positive note, the beach did have a certain Latin vibe, with groups of people lounging around and listening to loud latin music, and the sound of many lively Spanish conversations going on. Wind and kite surfers were out in force, and given there's a kitesurfing school here, perhaps it is windy a lot of the time.



I have also had to change my drink of choice - rum punch seems to be off the menu, so settled for a couple of caipharina's instead. Puerto Rico is also the birthplace of the Pina Colada, not a favourite, but feel the need to visit the bar where they were created when I visit the Old Town tomorrow.... Even though this place looks towards the US rather than the Caricom countries, it hasn't forgotten its Caribbean roots when it comes to charging an arm and a leg. A small mediocre pizza and the two said capharina's set me back $40 US at lunch.... Economically I need to get to Asia fast!

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