Monday 11 February 2008

Bangkok Buzzes (10 Feb 2008)

Wow – Bangkok really buzzes – even though it’s Sunday and not all the little shops are open, there is a real buzz about the place. I realise that I’m back in the northern hemisphere for the first time in over two months, how fast has that gone, but how far away from the peace of the Pampas in Argentina all those weeks ago, but I could do with Ant here for his bargaining skills! The tuk tuks seem to have virtually disappeared – replaced by bright neon yellow or Barbie pink meter taxi cabs, and an army of motor cycle taxis – if I thought a tuk tuk might be a bit of a risk, you can imagine my thoughts on the bike taxis, even though they do seem to have a spare crash helmet for the passenger – great for catching nits is all I can see they are useful for! But the traffic here seems in permanent gridlock, so perhaps a bike is the best route. The good news is that I am back to flashpacking, no sign of a microwave or even a dishwasher in this room – pure luxe all the way at the Conrad Bangkok – my excuse of course is that great hotels are such a bargain here, and I need the Hilton points for a freebie later in the year…. The old diamond card has come up trumps once again – a fabulous room, plush with silks and cushions, flat screen tv’s and i-pod docks, all you would expect. The upgrade puts me on the 31st (executive) floor – and I hate rooms so high up, but like Richard Gere in Pretty Woman, you put up with it ‘cos it’s the “best” place to be. And of course access to the exec lounge is worth its weight in bahts – well, I am a backpacker after all. A huge comp breakfast, missed out the afternoon tea, but true to form, I am writing this whilst drinking a cold Sauvignon Blanc, using the free wifi, munching on dim sum and sushi and looking out as night falls and lights twinkle in downtown Bangkok from the 29th floor, quite a view. Today was about reacquainting myself with the place – and I walked lots which is good. I started the day discovering the Skytrain – a great way to get around, just like the tube but over as opposed to under ground, but on a Sunday morning, even more packed than the Northern Line on a Monday morning, but probably a lot more efficient. The hotel have a shuttle that takes you to the Skytrain station but as I discovered, it’s all of a 5 min walk , and the concierge suggested that the best way to get to Siam Square shopping was a taxi (I got the Skytrain there and walked back….) what a spoiled lot these Conrad guests must be! But I really enjoyed the walk – I had forgotten about the heat, humidity and the smells – mostly exceptionally pleasant, especially the jasmine that is used for the temple offerings and on sale everywhere, that lovely smell of fragrant rice, incense, the smell of satay grilling in the open air with of course the odd waft of drains! Stopped for a cold drink at a café, and they have some fab fans – they have cold steam coming out (see vid) but personally I think all they do is add to the humidity rather than cool you down, but a pleasant change from a patio heater. The people about are of course locals, and huge amounts of tourists – the tourist economy looks very healthy. But there is still the odd big, old Euro man, accompanied by a smaller, younger, more attractive Thai girl – call me old fashioned, but am not convinced these are all true love matches, or even as respectable as mail order…. The shopping is, of course, up to standard. And there was a “Iadyboy” as a consultant on the Stila cosmetics counter in the big dept store…. I have also discovered malls and malls of Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gucci, Armani as well as every other designer you have ever heard of. But am trying not to shop – my bag is getting heavier and heavier, even though I am sure I haven’t bought anything…