My first glimpse of Mt Kinabalu was as we drove out of Kota Kinabalu 110km away! Must be some mountain to be able to see it's distinctive cockscomb jagged top of bare rock from that distance. The lower slopes are clad in dense rainforest, matching the rest of Sabah. There had been a nagging in the back of my mind all week, what if I failed? There was so much riding on this climb, if I failed, then Kili in July will be futile. I had to get to the top. And of course my preparation had been negligible.
I got to the national park hq to meet my guide at 9.30. He was a child! Tiny, nimble, simple rubber shoes on his feet. I was dressed to climb the Eiger in comparison. Lesson One for Kili - carry as little as possible, every extra bag of licorice allsorts and Sports mixture will make a difference.
We set off from the Timpohon gate at 1866m. I had to climb 1500m today over the short distance of 6 km. Estimates were generally set at 6.5 hrs. How could it take so long? We set off past waterfalls, through verdant green rainforest, it was beautiful. First km in 25 minutes, I was on fire!
Text: all good, 1km done, 8 to go. Steep steps thru rainforest. 25 min km, not bad, guide nice as speak "no inglish".
Every 500m there was a marker, my goodness some of these felt far apart. It was steamy and hot, I was soon sodden through, Very quickly I stopped looking around. The ascent had started in earnest and it was hard. There were occasional rest areas where you could collect mountain water. I would stop for a Jaffa cake fix. They helped a lot.
Text: 2km at 10.35 alt 2252m still hot, relentless steps. Enjoying it.
Climbing 1500m over 6 km, feels like climbing stairs. It was a relentless uphill slog, Sometimes it was so steep that there were in fact wooden stairs with handrails, otherwise, it was rock hewn steps, akin to climbing up a rocky stream bed for 6 km. As I gained altitude, I had to frequently stop to catch my breath. Lesson no. 2 for Kili - go at a pace that doesn't get you out of breath, as it was hard to get it back. I could hear my pulse in my ears, feel my heart pumping and am convinced that my left arm was swelling, shit I could die up here!!! The rainforest with its pitcher plants gave way to rhododendrons, then to high altitude scrub as the air got thinner and cooler. The clouds flying by, wispy and mysterious. This was as tough as the London marathon and I hadn't even trained. Fool. Made to feel even worse by the porters, young and old, male and female, who carry huge loads up this hill to the huts every day. They skipped past in flip flops, ggrrrrr.
Text: now at Pandok Layang Layang, passed 3.5 km mark. In clouds, huge ferns, flowers and steps. Starting to see last night people coming down.
At 1440 I arrived at Laban Rata resthouse, home for the next 12 hours. I was breathless and had a bad headache and this was only 3300m, Kili is at 6000m. I had a dorm bed, I collapsed into it, some people were skipping around, I could hardly move, fortunately there were some young Swedish people in the dorm who were in an even worse state than me, that made me feel better! We all had headaches, one of the girls had tingly arms, another thought that circulation had stopped to her leg and she had a clot, welcome to hypochondriac anonymous, but it was nice to share as the walk up was lonely. There was only me in my group and Samira, my guide spoke no english, other then "yes, beautiful" to whatever question I posed. If I could have breathed I could have had a fun conversation to amuse myself, but breathing was my focus. Kili tip 3. Headache pills, take them early, and keep drinking.
Text: made the hut at 14.40, 6km, 3300m. Knackered, its tough, now above tree line. Will have to get fitter before Kili. Mountains take no prisoners.
My dorm was situated in the Pendant hut which was made of tin sheets, stuck on the side of the mountain, with toilets and cold water showers in the cellar which was open to the elements. Why would anyone take a shower? Most climbers were Chinese and they were kitted out in brand new climbing and hiking gear. I was feeling like Steptoe.
Dinner was in the main hut, about 100m downhill. Getting my boots back on was a struggle let alone walking down to dinner, but I made it. Stuffed myself with carbs and headed back, taking photos of the sunset as I went. But bed was my focus, and I was wrapped up in someone else's left over sleeping bag by 6pm.
We were going to get woken for the final ascent at 2.00 am. I don't think I slept at all, I was worrying that if tomorrow was worse, and it should be as it was higher, then would I be able to make it. I must have slept though, as I heard someone complain about the snorer the next day....
Text: here goes, dumped as much stuff as poss, v cold, going outside, may be a while.
I remember the sleeping bag being warm and cosy and so getting up wasn't easy. Toast, peanut butter, hot tea for breakfast and at 2.30 am Samira arrived in a balaclava. I was well layered with Icebreakers! And with a flashlight on my head we set off to conquer Kinabalu. And the amazing thing was I felt great, breathlessness and aches had gone. Bring on the summit! It was still uphill, still hard work, but nowhere near the agony of yesterday, I could make this, the stars were out in force, there was a full moon, as there will be for Kili. The mountain looked beautiful. Behind me were a trail of head torches, akin to candles from some medieval pilgrimage. The steps soon gave way to smooth granite slabs, they had ropes across them, I had to use my hands to haul myself up and across, the ropes went on for ages.
Text: 7km, 3666m, 1hr 20 to do 1km, but in middle of pack, so no problem. Crossing sheer granite slopes, using ropes, tough but enjoying it. Should summit at 6.30 hopefully, heart pounding.
Amazingly, it felt easy, the air was cool, the surroundings were astonishing, and I knew that I was going to make it.
Text: 8km 3969 m, this is such a special place. Loving being up here. Astonishing other worldly, the moon makes me want to cry.
It was unclear to me which of the many jagged pillars is in fact the summit of Lows Peak, but soon the line of head torches became evident and there was a mad scramble up the final 200m.
Text: made it at 05.40 Result! I'm at the top of SE Asia chuffed to bits gorgeous sunrise.
I had made it, the last 2.8 km and 800m in 3 hrs and 10 minutes. I shed a few tears, I think they were of relief and happiness. I had carried up some stones in memory of friends departed and it all felt so right. I was really proud of myself. Amazingly there was a mobile signal and so I facebooked and called David. It was great to share the moment. Kili tip no 4 night climbing feels easier, take spare torch batteries.
Text: feels amazing and so chuffed. Last half hour scramble. Placed memory rocks at top.
The sunrise was beautiful as they always are at altitude, the moon hadn't set, so it shared the sky. The world had never looked better. How lucky I am to get to see all this? Then the mad scramble for a photo at the sign and after 30 minutes, and all too soon, it was time to turn back downhill. I will never forget this moment. Colin and John if you are reading this, Kili will be amazing. Kili tip no. 5 bring tissues.
I walked down the whole 2.2 km altitude/9.2 km in distance in one morning, I left the peak at 06.10, getting back to base at 13.00, with an hour's break for breakfast at the huts.
Text: 0820 back at dorm hut for breakfast. Descent hard on toes and knees am elated.
Downhill was hard on the knees and toes.
Text: back down, legs jelly, toes fallen off.
Gill was waiting with a big glass of why why. I was too tired to talk. To bed with a smile!
Today, walking down steps is hard and I have two black toenails as souvenirs.
Kili tip no.6 Take linament, knee supports and champagne. The satisfaction feels immense. Bring it on.
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