Mama Mia! (26 - 28 December 2012)

In the style of all Thai's, no personal question is taboo. All the ones about age, husbands, the size of your house in England flow fast and often. The one about did I have any babies seemed to strike a chord with the young guy in the hotel restaurant who looks about 12 but is probably about 18, and he seemed upset by my negative answer. In very interesting sign language (his English is only marginally better than my Thai) he indicated that his parents were both dead but then brightened up and decided that I would make a good mother substitute. Since then, as soon as he sees me, he shouts very loudly "hello Mama"....
Spent an interesting couple of hours last night in the local watering hole, there are always people to chat to. Most were UK expats with the women living here and the men off every few weeks to work on the oil rigs in the Gulf. The American owner is back from his stint in Afganistan as a security advisor. And then there was Steve, a Scouser who lives here eight months of the year and goes back to the UK for four months each year to do airport taxi work which is enough to keep him, his Thai girlfriend and stepson when he is back here. He used to run a bar here but gave it up when business slackened. He blamed the fact that the backpackers here had been replaced by families who were less interested in buying beers and just stayed in their hotels. Interesting lives some people lead. But a convivial evening.
So the days here pass peacefully. Managed to get lost this morning on a walk between the main road and the beach. Found myself in a lovely real Thai community with chickens and dogs wandering about. And back at the hotel the formal invitation to the New Year's Eve celebration was waiting, not quite the "stiffie" one would wish for your mantelpiece but a couple of photocopied sheets.



But the sentiments expressed were so nice, talking about being honoured that we are staying with them. Long and short of it is we are invited to a Thai New Year celebration on the beach with lots of Thai food and entertainment, all of which is free - what a pleasant change from the usual £100 compulsory gala dinner at most places. The menu looks fab, all local stuff, just not sure about the "deep fried cake powder serve with condensed milk"... But I think the "coconut ice cream made in Koh Samui" may just have my name on it. All soft drinks are also free but I may have to partake in a few 70 baht (about £1.40) cocktails or why why's to get through the Karaoke....
Tonight is full moon again so I will be listening out for the revelries from nearby Koh Phangnam...




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

A tri nations evening (25 - 26 December 2012)

A quiet Xmas here in Mae Nam with a lot of places closed. The nearest I got was seeing two people in Santa hats and a rendition of Frosty the Snowman as I wandered past a restaurant. What the locals call "Happy New Year" seems to be bigger here but I think they can relate more to that with the size of their own huge New Year Festival, Songkran.
So Xmas Day was spent lazing in the sun and dodging the rain. No Xmas dinner to be had, not even dinner on the beach, the high waves meant all the beach restaurants were cleared away. But that didn't stop Ant and David torturing me on Facetime with all the delights I was doing without.... Vintage Krug, turkey, mince pies.... I made do with Beef Bourguignon and roast tatoes, the nearest I could find and then a quiet why why relaxing in a deck chair on the sand contemplating the stars... And for those of you overly concerned that every blog entry features why why, I can confirm that I was easily able to extricate myself from said deckchair very elegantly!
No cold turkey and chips either on Boxing Day so I repair to the local French restaurant for something to eat. As well as the why why of course, their major attraction is the fast wifi and my date with Downton Abbey via Slingbox. All slightly strange, I am in a small Thai village atmosphere, all the other restaurant patrons are French, I order in French and the smells are French, heavy perfume and drains. I guess the drains are also a Thai phenomenon but I feel very English settling down to watch the telly. How good was Downton Abbey. Not to spoil it for those who haven't watched it yet but at the end I felt like Charles de Gaulle shouting out "Non...."


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Powerless Politicians (23 - 24 December 2012)

Waking up on election morning yesterday was a dark affair, as well as the black skies and heavy rain there was a power cut. Last month there was a huge political controversy as the power to the island was out for four days, also meaning no water as the pumps didn't work. Even big hotels with their own generators struggled as petrol to fuel them was in short supply but all through the political parties were still driving the streets using up precious fuel supplies with their loudspeaker trucks loudly proclaiming their message. I wondered if the power cut was some sort of political sabotage and hoped it wasn't going to be another 4 dayer! Luckily it proved to be neither as all was restored by early afternoon. And the alcohol ban whilst still in force seemed to be ignored. Local bars didn't bother to open, I guess they were too obvious a target for the local police but no issues at the hotel. Wine was served quite openly, removing the need for my "secret water". Although I have to admit Ant and my secret gin or Bacardi water is a little less obvious. An Aussie white in a water bottle does look a little too much like some sort of "sample" for even me to find appetising!
And this morning was even darker than yesterday, apart from a few hours in the night the power stayed on, but this morning big black clouds were depositing huge amounts of much needed water on the place. Huge waves made the beach almost disappear and all the tables from the hotel beach restaurant were moved inside. The grey skies persisted all day and it even felt chilly in the wind chill, well that is my version of wind chill, probably a bit different to most people...
So a couple of days both literally and figuratively chillin' out. Just last minute shopping, tonic water, crisps, you get the idea!



So it's Xmas Eve here, seven hours ahead of the UK and the good news according to Flightradar 24 is that Santa's on his way. I hope he brings me sunshine!
They also tell me he's flying at a different altitude to avoid the issues he faced last year...



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Christmas Shopping (21 December 2012)

My excuse was actually Xmas shopping but in reality it was pre election shopping.... There is an election here for some new members of the Koh Samui ruling body, apparently as it has recently been designated a "city", things have changed and new people need to be appointed. No problem but they have certain rules here in Thailand and from 6pm on the night before the election until midnight the night of, sales of alcohol are prohibited everywhere, shops, restaurants, cafes, hotels, anywhere. Buying or selling is a big offense and I had no wish to star in one of my fave National Geographic programmes "Banged Up Abroad"! The election day was firstly planned for Xmas Day, a normal day here in Thailand but that would have meant no alcohol sales on Xmas Eve evening and the whole of Xmas Day..... As it is, prohibiting such sales on 22nd/23rd December in the high season in a place chock full of Europeans with money to spend seems a little shortsighted, but how much more of a disaster to local business if the original dates were kept. Local lore says it is the fact that they would prefer the 3000 baht or so paid by candidates to individuals to "encourage" votes to be spent on getting people to the polling booths rather than spending it booze is the reason, but I am sure that is just local lore. A better explanation is the troubled past that Thailand has around elections which they don't wish to inflame. But whatever, the hordes of happy tourists arriving for their tropical Xmas break tomorrow evening are unlikely to be saying "how sensible" when they finally check into paradise after a long flight to be told "no alcoho, ee finee. Ok in 36 hours"... But having said that they sure will enjoy that first one!
Since I arrived there have been loads of loudspeaker trucks extolling the virtues of the candidates with their pictures appearing everywhere. They do seem to have overdosed on the Olay skincare with "whitening" though, I've never seen such white faces in my life!


So hence my shopping. To manage the calories I would consume by stocking up I decide to walk to Tesco. It didn't look far on the map.... But after over an hour in 30 degree heat I gave up when I spotted Koh Samui's answer to Bluewater with a big Carrefour and a Starbuck's appear.



Forget brand loyalty as long as they sold why why.... And success, a box of Aussie wine (ok, but needs must in desperate circumstances) but still no sign of a mince pie... Lots of carols playing over the pa system and girls dressed in Santa outfits but still no mincies...
But if you are reading this the good news is that today wasn't the end of the world, glad really, it would have been a bit of a waste walking all that way. As I write Australia is into the 22nd December, but I guess there are a few hours yet to go to reach Mexico.... And more good news, the days start getting longer again, hooray! Koh Phangnam, the island I can see from where I am writing this on the beach this evening is hosting an end of the world party. They are famous for their Full Moon Parties, so have rebranded on this occasion to a Half Moon party. Will probably be able to hear them later assuming the Apocalypse doesn't happen...



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Bit of a miss at the Bliss Day Spa.... (20 December 2010)

... but before you get too excited this one is a long way from the London one, the name is about all they share. This is in Mae Nam village and is more like someone's front room with a few hungry fish swimming around in a tank at the front that promise the delights of the "fish spa". There are so few in there I think it would take a few hours to do anyone's feet. But I went yesterday to try out the manicure. Not too bad especially for the inflated tourist price of £4. I chose a rather fetching bright pink which looked relatively ok in the gloom, but I now think that they save money by not turning on the lights. When I emerged into the daylight they were rather luminous, not a bad thing here though, they are so bright they will help me cross the road at night, always a bit of an issue.... But apart from the colour they did a good job so I return today for the matching pedicure. I ask for the same colour - in for a penny I thought, sod dignity, just think about crossing roads safely. She duly finishes but I realise when I again emerge from the gloom, the toes are a much more subdued hue of pink. Perhaps growing old disgracefully is not so acceptable in Thailand as I thought! But whilst there I had a nice chat with a Brit/ NZ couple with a lovely child called Dylan. You will be pleased to hear I refrained from showing photos of the Dyl...
Tonight was the weekly "walking street" here in Mae Nam, where they close the two streets to traffic. No real problem as there is never any traffic anyway! It's a nice evening, lots of stalls selling crafts and street food with the accompanying aromas of Thai food being cooked over the coals as well as little pop up bars selling cocktails for £1 and live music. The food smelled really good but I did avoid the deep fried grasshopper and other insect thingy stall. Too much like I'm a Celebrity for my taste. And was sad to see that the stall selling Sunday Dinner pies wasn't there, especially as the Lazy Coconut, my previous haunt for a good Sunday roast has closed down. But interestingly more locals than tourists seemed to be there. It still seems really quiet here, no sign yet of the Xmas rush, but this hotel is full from the 22nd.
And in preparation they are decking the bar with boughs of tinsel.... so often in Thailand the design is minimalist Balinese - no so the Florist Resort, tinsel is the mot du jour......

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Am lovin' the bell... (Saturday 15 December 2012)

In my search for why why last night, I happened upon a new bar and grill here in Mae Nam and popped in to try their version of the stuff, but the main reason of course was the free fast wifi..... Managed by a British pair, it is owned by an American who was making his return to Koh Samui last night, and like any prodigal son on his return, a fatted calf (well a free bbq....) was provided for all patrons. I got chatting to a couple from Belgium, Carla and Carlton (he an American - well he had to be with that name......). Really interesting, they run a Yoga school from their big farmhouse near Antwerp, and they certainly looked the part, especially he with his long flowing hair. Also joining us was an American girl who is travelling for five years. She allows herself $500 US a month for everything, travel, bed, food. Her total backpack weighs 11kilos and she uses couchsurfing.com for her accommodation. When she runs out of money towards the end of each month she goes to temples to eat, where food is provided free for hungry strangers. Now I'm sure I could learn some lessons from her.....
So all in all an interesting evening. But the best part of it all was that every time a big bell rings, they are insistent that your glass is refilled..... and the returning owner was very active with the bell..... So a good evening, three large glasses of drinkable why why and a delicious bbq all coming in at 130 Baht (less than £3).... Perhaps I did learn something from the American traveller after all.....


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Groundhog days......

Well, it's that time of year I hear you cry, Gill must be off again... Right, I am sitting in the sunshine enjoying a latte by the Xmas tree in the About Cafe in Koh Samui. And writing Xmas postcards in lieu of the Xmas cards I didn't find time for before I left....
It was a bit of a marathon getting here, I think this must have been the most delayed trip I have ever done! Not a good start at Heathrow, all boarded then a wait for the de icers which weren't working too well to get rid of the ice on the wings, then some poor soul got ill and had to be taken off the plane, then the wait to take his bags off. By that time the wings had iced up again so another wait for the de icers that weren't working too well .... you get the picture! But no real problem, a glass or two of champagne kept me going! Then a few hours' stopover in Mumbai, never a place I have done well in. Most of the time was taken up with bureaucratic nonsense, all I wanted to do was get off one plane and onto another with the boarding pass issued in London... But that is far too simple for the Indian authorities. And Mumbai airport, if it were a beer, would be the worst in the world.... I was here just a few years back when it was being rebuilt so was expecting something quite shiny.... What I got was a smelly, grubby place with the guys in the lounge running round with those electronic tennis bats to try and keep down the mozzie population. Needless to say, I didn't eat and the gilljel was much used.
And so to Groundhog day 2. Boarded the Cathay flight on time, pulled away from the gate when the call goes out over the speakers for "any medical staff on board, we have a sickness problem with many of our passengers". I was hoping the "many of our passengers" was a slight error in translation... Whatever, whichever medical staff came to the rescue they worked, and about an hour later with no one being wheeled off the plane, we get away.
Now what is it people say about things happening in three's? I was pleased, when we boarded the Bangkok flight to Koh Samui on time with no last minute drama. I sat back to look forward to arriving in the Koh Samui island sunshine in 50 minutes time. Now I know I don't speak Thai, but even I could grasp from the Thai pilot's announcement in a regretful voice and the words "Bangkok" and "Suvarnabhumi", and the engine noises telling me we were doing a bit of circling that things were amiss. My first reaction when the English version came on was, I'll admit, relief, when it appeared it was just that the weather had closed in on Koh Samui and the visibility was too low to land. Obviously no instrument landings here, but I guess one can expect that when the airport is a series of, albeit charming, huts....
My second reaction was Groundhog day 3 as yet more flight delays appeared... My third reaction was what the hell was the weather playing at throwing huge thunderstorms on the island in the dry season..... Whatever the weather Gods were up to, we had no choice but to turn tail and head back to Bangkok... Two hours in the air to end up back at Bangkok airport! So we all pile back in the lounge and wait and wait and wait.... Eventually a flurry of announcements as plane after delayed plane scrambles to take off like Spitfires in the Battle of Britain to take advantage of the weather window that appeared over Samui. Back on we get, same people, same crew, same seats in another Groundhog episode. The only thing missing was the meal they normally serve, we had obviously all eaten that first time round...
But eventually, only seven hours late I arrive in a warm but damp Koh Samui, to yet more Groundhog stuff. I am staying somewhere I have been before, same staff, same room and of course same little swimming pool just outside the room. Some Groundhog days are good.



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad