Thursday 29 April 2010

The ups and downs of village life (27 April 2010)



Seseh, where the villa is is a small Balinese village. It seems relatively prosperous, all the houses are the Balinese compounds and there are also a few villas spread about, including one really huge white monstrosity called Mahatma House. The narrow village roads are clean and tidy and there are a few more little shops (just water, veg, sweets that sort of thing). There are, of course, dogs everywhere as well as free running chickens and chickens caged in large domed straw cages lining the road.

These chickens are very loud and start their ”cock a doodle doo’s” at some terrible hour in the middle of the night. At the edge of the village there is a stream where women were doing the laundry on the stones and also taking a bath. The water looked a bit grubby to me, but it obviously works, the people and their clothes look clean and sparkling. But in the middle there is a huge temple complex. I need to find out a bit more but apparently the beach is a sacred site for the nearby town of Mengwi, and the huge temple complex supports that I suppose. By the temple is a small school where I could hear the kids playing. As I wandered down to the beach this morning there was a ceremony happening. The people were really nice and invited me to watch saying I could take pictures. I felt a bit guilty but did take just the one. Luckily I had my sarong with me, and had tied it around me as soon as I saw something was going on, perhaps that helped. Apparently it was a post cremation ceremony and people were all sitting around facing out to sea and singing quietly with temple umbrellas and ordinary umbrellas to keep off the sun. The main group seemed to be mainly women and further back were older women on one side and men, all in traditional dress on the other. Small children, also in traditional dress, were running around playing, going from one group to another The women offered me water, indicating that the sun was strong, but luckily I was able to show my own so didn’t have to partake of theirs, but it was a very generous gesture.



Everyone says hello, and those who speak a bit of English shake your hand and ask where you are from. I spent a while watching the mobile threshing machine where locals bring their harvested rice for removal of the husk. A really nice man with limited English took the time to explain it to me. And I have been the centre of some good hearted amusement as I ask for 2 bottles of water in the ant ridden shop in my Bhahasa Indonesian – I think they were pleased I had made a little effort, even if it was amusing!


There is apparently a big ceremony here tomorrow, one that happens every six months and gives thanks. The preparations started today and amount so far to rather loud singing, talking and music going on, via a set of powerful speakers. A man’s voice, full of expression, like a Shakesperian actor speaks for a while and then a woman’s wailing/singing voice seems to reply – all to a background of Balinese musical instruments. I am told the preparation goes on for 24 hours – I just hope the noise doesn’t nice as it is.... But at least I know it’s a real village ceremony, not for tourists.......



And by the way, I saw my fourth snake today.......